Tuesday, February 27, 2024

On Our Way to Indonesia Again Feb 2024

So, from Thailand, we made it into Langkawi Island, Malaysia and went into Rebak Island Marina on Friday February 16. And we had just been told that the Sabang Festival in Indonesia wasn't going to start on March 4th as we'd been told earlier, but on March 1! So we had to hustle to make it there in time.

We first needed to get checked into Malaysia, and get provisioned for 6 months in Indonesia. The Rebak Island Resort and Marina is a nice place to hang out, but the logistics of getting to "town" in Kuah where almost everything is, is interesting.
Rebak Island Marina on Langkawi

Rebak Island is a small island located on the west coast of bigger Langkawi Island. Langkawi is a Duty Free port in Malaysia, so it's a great place to stock up on liquor and other provisions before our long dry spell in Indonesia. To get to town, you have to take a small Resort ferry to the "mainland" (the Island of Langkawi, and then a taxi or Grab (like Uber) into town.
Rebak Island and Langkawi Island
The grey line is the approx border between Malaysia and Thailand

But before we could start shopping, we needed to get checked into Malaysia. That is all done at the big ferry terminal in Kuah. It's a big place and we weren't sure where we were going at first, but managed to ask around and find the offices we needed. But it's convenient because all the offices we needed to visit to clear in are located in the same big building.

By the time we got in to the marina, it was Friday afternoon, and most government offices shutdown around noon on Friday, as the Muslim holy period is Friday evening and Saturday. So we planned our visit for Saturday morning.

The first stop in Kuah is the Harbormaster. We had to show boat papers and insurance (mainly wreck removal coverage of $400K USD). And then go downstairs to Immigration. We were held up a little at Immigration--a ferry from Thailand had just come in, so we had to wait for Immigration to finish processing that ferry. Then we found that our MDAC, which we had declared our arrival for Friday, wasn't good for a Saturday check-in, so we had to do the forms again (one for each of us) online. But after that, Immigration check-in was good. Since we were leaving in a week, we didn't care how much time we were given, but normally we get 90 days on arrival in Malaysia. The final stop was Customs, somewhere else in the building, and we breezed through that. The only expense was a very small "lights" fee at the Harbormaster.

The Langkawi Eagle


Once cleared in, we explored the area around the ferry terminal--the chandlery, the big Billion supermarket, and iconic (and huge) Eagle that is Langkawi's "symbol", a huge statue on the waterfront. After lunch we loaded up on "provisions" and headed back to the marina in time to catch the afternoon ferry. We did this a few times over several days to try to fill up on all the western goods we wouldn't find in Indonesia.

While in Rebak we also filled up on fuel, and installed the new trampolines we had brought back with us from Multihull Nets in St. Pete, FL. Dave did a rig check, as we always do before heading offshore.

It wasn't all work--the marina is right next to a resort with a beach/pool bar. We enjoyed sundowners by the pool on several evenings with the other yachties.

On Friday Feb 23, we went in to town early and cleared out for Indonesia. And on Saturday, full to the gills with liquor, food, and fuel, we headed for Sabang, the harbor city on Pulau Web, a relatively small island right on the northern tip of Sumatra. The Sabang Marine Festival, held every year in late Feb/early March was to be the kick-off event for the West Indonesia Rally 2024.

It's about 275 nautical miles from Langkawi to Sabang--we had light winds and were able to sail about 2/3 of the way. Our path crosses the very busy shipping channel coming up the Straits of Malacca and then turning west for the Indian Ocean. See the Marine Traffic screenshot I took as we contemplated this trip.

Marine Traffic Showing Ship Traffic in the Malacca Strait

Our strategy was to plan to cross the stream of ships as much as possible at a right angle, and in daylight. So our path was more of an "S" shape, going in toward the Sumatran coast early to get out of the shipping traffic. What we didn't count on was that when we got close to the coast, we had fishing traffic to content with. But the weather was mild, the moon was full, and we had a 3rd person helping stand watches (our friend Linda). Also, the Marine Traffic window shows more ships than is actually in anyone place at one time. The ships whose AIS they pick up via satellite do not get updated frequently. So there wasn't nearly as much dodging as we'd expected.

Our Track from Langkawi to Sabang

A Container Ship Passing Us

Late on the morning of Feb 26th, we dropped anchor off the town pier at Sabang. We had Starlink, and so had internet and had been able to notify our agent by Whatsapp that we were arriving. The agent arranged all the clearance formalities--taking our paperwork, making copies, filling out forms, and arranging for the clearance officers to visit the boat.
Anchoring in the Rain

The Floating Dinghy Dock

Our Friends the Immigration Officers

The only hitch in our clearance was the Quarantine people. One of the things they do (sometimes) is check the ship's medical chest. As a cruising boat cruising in remote locations, we have a very well-stocked set of prescription medicines--everything from strong antibiotics, to burn medicines, malaria treatments, and strong painkillers. We got most of these prescribed for us when we left Florida, and almost everything was technically "expired". Some of our antibiotics that were not expired were in unlabeled ziplock bags--exactly how we'd bought them, over the counter, in the Solomon Islands. Well, the doctor that was the head of the Quarantine crowd really didn't like our expired and unlabeled prescription medications, and threatened to confiscate them. But I convinced her that we really needed to have this stuff--and that taking expired medications wasn't harmful if we really needed them and didn't have anything else. She strongly recommended we update our medical chest, ASAP.

Sunday, February 25, 2024

Thailand Dec 2023 to Feb 2024

I can't believe that the last post I did on my blog was in Dec 2023! Between adminning several Facebook and Whatsapp groups, and maintaining Compendia from Ecuador to the Med, planning travel for our sightseeing and US trips, and doing all my normal jobs as wife and boat partner, I just never seem to find the time. I'm going (again) to try to catch up a little.
Our 2 1/2 Month Cruise Around Western Thailand

We had a nice sail with our friends on Meikyo on our last day from Ko Rok into Ao Chalong. The wind was just right and we had a chance to photograph each other under sail.
We are Actually Sailing!

Meikyo is Sailing Too!

We checked in at Ao Chalong harbor on the SE Coast of Phuket, just in time for Christmas. We had rushed up from Pangkor because we had, a month previously, committed to attending a Christmas Day lunch in Chalong with friends from the 2022 Sail to Indonesia Rally. The check-in at Chalong is easy, because all offices are located right on the pier, and there are some English-speaking helpers to assist yachties through the process.
Check-in Process Chalong

We had stopped in Penang, Malaysia to get a Thai visa from the Thai Embassy there, which would have given us 60 days on arrival. But, finding that the process would take 2-3 days, we felt we didn't have the time to stay and do that and still make the Christmas Day lunch. So we arrived in Thailand with no Visa. Thailand has a thing about "crew". If you arrive with no visa, as "crew", you only get 30 days, if you are listed as a passenger, you are given 60 days. If you arrive as a tourist, flying in, you are given 60 days. So the trick is to either get a visa from an embassy or consulate, or come in as a "passenger". But someone has to be listed on the crew list as "Captain". And to confuse the issue, it's sometimes possible to pay a fee at Immigration to be stamped in as a "passenger" not a "crew". (But sometimes it is not possible, depends on which officer you get). Anyway, when we were stamped in to Thailand, we were only given 30 days, and ended up having to get a visa extension at the end of January for another 30 days (not difficult, just paperwork, a half a day at an Immigration office, and some money).

Chalong Harbor is a big harbor, and in December/January (high high season in Phuket) it is stuffed full of boats. We wandered around the anchorage, trying to tuck in someplace a little out of the weather (NE wind) and closer to the pier, but ended up pretty far out, and kind of in the middle of the approach path for tourist boats coming and going from the pier. Eventually we diecided to spend the nights about 2nm east of Chalong Pier at Ao Yon. Better shelter and not so much boat traffic.

As soon as we could, we skedaddled out of Chalong and went around to Nai Harn on the SW corner of Phuket Island. There, we were stunned by the number of boats in the harbor and the number of sunbathing tourists on the beach. It's High HIGH season in Phuket in December/January.
Sunset on the Beach at Nai Harn

Cruisers tend NOT to anchor in too close to the beach at Nai Harn. There are tales of drunk naked swimmers from the beach climbing onto boats in the middle of the night!

Christmas Eve at Nai Harn on Meikyo

We stayed in Nai Harn until New Years Day. Then, we picked up Dave's son, Chris, and his wife, Sandy, off the beach, and set off for a whirlwind tour of Phang Na Bay. Chris and Sandy had done their homework and had listed all the tourist hotspots as their "must do" things in their short week in Phuket.
"Longtails" are Ubiquitous in Thailand

And Noisy!

It seems every country in SE Asia has a unique design for it's small boats. In Thailand, it is the "Longtail". Unmuffled gasoline engines, with a long shaft that can be raised out of the water so the boat can be beached. Practical, but deafening.

In 4 days, we visited Ko Racha Yai, the Phi Phi Islands (The Beach), 4-5 "Hongs" (caves), and James Bond Island.

New Years Day at Ko Racha Yai

Where the Movie "The Beach" Was Filmed

This beach is so overwhelmed by tourists and noisy longtails that the government declared landing at the beach illegal. Tourists have to land on the other side of the island, be dropped off, hike across the island, and are permitted only 1 hour on the beach. Naturally we didn't bother going ashore.

We spent the night in Phi Phi Don. This harbor is just packed with tour boats, and during a stroll along the waterfront, we saw many touts selling tours for the next day.

Phi Phi Don Waterfront

Tours being Touted

So Many Tour Boats!!

We couldn't find enough space to anchor in the harbor, within reasonable dinghy distance of the town, so we grabbed an empty mooring. But right about dark, the boat that belonged on the mooring came back. We ended up anchoring on short scope too close to other boats on moorings. Fortunately the weather was benign--but I didn't get a very good night's sleep!

Entering the Hongs Area

"Hong" is the Thai word for Cave. The entire Phang Na Bay area is made of karst islands that are often found to be hollow inside. We spent 2 days exploring every hong that we had a location for.

Exploring the Hongs

Chris and Dave Getting a Tour

Some Really Cool Spots to Explore

Some We Could Take Our Dinghy Into

Sandy and I Opted Out of This One!

James Bond Island

On the 4th day, we dropped Chris and Sandy off ashore when we pulled into Phuket Yacht Haven--they took a taxi to their upscale (air conditioned) hotel on the beach for their last night in Thailand. They were sure happy to be off the hot muggy confines of our boat! It was a short visit, but we had fun together. Afterward they flew to Singapore and enjoyed a few days there. Then back to work and the cool dry weather in San Diego.

We hung out for a week on a mooring next to Yacht Haven Marina, doing a little work on the boat and exploring this part of Phuket by taxi. (Using Grab and Bolt, Uber-like apps in Phuket). We were also waiting for our friend, Linda, to fly in for a visit (Linda cruised with us thru late May).

Wow! A Real Chandlery!

After we left Yacht Haven, we went all the way back around to Nai Harn, as we had several friends we wanted to see before they blasted off for the Red Sea.

Our Friends on Ganesh
The Last Night Before Leaving for The Red Sea

Then we left Nai Harn to head north up the west coast of Phuket. We day-hopped, actually sailing for a few hours at a time, all the way up to Koh Phyam, an island off the coast of the north end of Thailand, close to the Myanmar border. It took us several days. We stopped overnight at Bang Tao, Ban Thap Lamu, Koh Phra Thong, and finally anchoring in the big bay at the NW corner of Koh Phyam.

Sunset at Bang Tao Bay

Bang Tao Bay is only half a day's sail from Nai Harn, same sunset but way fewer people and boats, at this little anchorage at the north end of the bay.

The Boat Bar at Ko Phyam

Margaritas at Sunset

Sunset on the Beach

Touring Funky Koh Phyam

We enjoyed a few days fooling around on Koh Phyam, renting motorbikes for 2 days to run around the island.

Lunch Somewhere on Koh Phyam

Wat Koh Phyam - A Buddhist Temple on a Pier

Inside the Tiny Temple

"Wat Ko Phayam is the main temple on Ko Phayam, a small island in the Andaman Sea off the coast of Thailand. It's a serene Buddhist temple offering beautiful views and a tranquil atmosphere, making it a popular spot for meditation and reflection. The temple is known for its unique architecture, including a wihaan (prayer hall) with distinctive designs."

Look at this Empty Beach!

And the Beautiful Boats in the Nearly Empty Bay

It was time to head south, and this time we chose the offshore route. There are two island groups offshore on the way back south--the Surin Islands and the Similan Islands. They are both parks. We stopped in the Surins and skipped the Similans, because you have to pre-book your visit to the Similans ahead of time (and pay money). These islands are closest to the population centers of Phuket and are major tourist attractions, so are highly regulated. But the Surins are less so.

Thai Fishing Boat
(with all those lights, probably fishing for squid at night)

Amazingly, We Catch a Fish!
(it helps to put the lines out--thanks, Linda!)

A Chartlet Showing Our Explorations in the Surin Islands

Park Facilities

We were shocked to find a major tourist tent village, a bathroom and shower building, and a cafeteria ashore.

Tent Village at the Surins Park

The "Glamping" Tents (with Aircon)

The Cafeteria

Watch Out for the Monkeys!

THIS is Why Everyone Is Here

We did get asked to pay a park fee when we checked in with the rangers ashore, but were not hassled otherwise.

We found a great snorkel spot that was good enough that we eventually went back for a dive. (09°24.99'N / 097°50.76'E).

After a week in the Surin Islands, we reluctantly headed on south. By the time we got back down to Nai Harn, it was time to carry on south to Langkawi, and then on to Indonesia, in time for the West Indonesia Rally which starts at the end of February in Sabang, Indonesia.

We took a taxi from Nai Harn to check out of Chalong, but neglected to bring Linda along. We found out once we got to Immigration that all crew have to be present to check in and out of Thailand. So Linda had to bum a ride ashore with a friend and get a Grab to the harbor.

We left Nai Harn headed south on Feb 14. We had hoped to overnight at Ko Rok, but we found wind too close to sail, and it became obvious that we wouldn't reach Ko Rok before dark. So we changed plans and tacked east, anchoring in the dark at the south end of Ko Lanta. The next day--another long day, motorsailing to keep our speed up--we anchored at dusk at Ko Tarutao.

It was an easy day into Rebak Marina, Langkawi, Malaysia after that--we actually sailed halfway!

For cruising information for Malaysia and Thailand, check out our Cruising Compendiums on the Files page of our website (free pdf files chock full of details about cruising the area). https://svsoggypaws.com/files/index.htm#se-asia