tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68652359662026118862024-02-24T18:12:52.522+09:00Cruising with Soggy PawsJoin Dave and Sherry on their cruise around the world on their St. Francis 44 catamaran.<br>(Finally have left the Philippines and are currently cruising Indonesia)Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.comBlogger1091125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-67284917771434275982023-12-17T10:53:00.011+09:002023-12-18T10:59:57.892+09:00Finally Escaped from Pangkor MarinaA few days ago, after 2 weeks of fairly frantic activity--completing boat projects, provisioning, getting cat annual visits, moving out of the condo, etc etc, we finally left Pangkor Marina.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/dec/FinallyUnderway.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/dec/FinallyUnderway-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Finally Underway!</center></strong><br>
It was bittersweet. While we are REALLY excited about getting out cruising again, we will really miss everyone, both staff and cruisers, at Pangkor Marina. The Pangkor staff is just fantastic. Led by James Khoo, but supported by Akina, Ruz, Adam, (and several others) in the office, and Shah, Fifi, Fikri, Akmal, (and several others) in the marina and yard, we couldn't have had a better place to spend a year. Yes, A YEAR!<br>
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James' monthly (and sometimes more often) BBQ's, where beer, soft drinks, and grilled meat are provided free by the marina, is just one of the thoughtful things that give the marina a very nice community feel. The amenities like a pretty well-stocked marine store (and help sourcing parts they don't stock, from anywhere in SE Asia), free wifi in the air conditioned "library", inexpensive housing across the street from the marina, rental cars by the hour, and a lively Whatsapp group, the marina feels like home.<br>
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We did, in all fairness, do two 2 1/2 months visits to the USA, 22 days in Vietnam/Laos, and a long weekend in Cameron Highlands. We got LOTS done that needed doing--most significant being stripping 8 years of bottom paint and getting a new "good for 4 years" bottom job.<br>
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Other things that I can think of off the top of my head that we accomplished... 2 new alternators, new start battery, many small electrical upgrades, rebalanced our LifePO4 batteries, major saildrive maintenance, new propane hoses, new awnings, sail maintenance, liferaft tested and repacked, fire extinguishers serviced, new electric outboard (ePropulsion), new B&G digital radar, new Nav Computer, new flooring in the main cabin (faux teak), boat polishing, rudders straightened (again). We also purchased and learned how to use a Starlink internet terminal, so now we will have real internet when we go offshore.<br>
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After agonizing over what kind of bottom paint to use (Chugoku, Jotun, International, CopperCoat), we settled on a new formulation offered by International Marine... International AP. It is an ablative paint formulated for high fouling areas and for slower boats that tend to sit in one place for weeks at a time (ie cruising sailboats). International says we should get 4 years out of it. James arranged for a professional team from International Marine in Singapore to come to Pangkor to apply it, and teach the Pangkor crew how to do it next time. Because we are a test boat, we've agreed to send back periodic updates on how it is doing--they wanted to make sure the paint was applied per International specs.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/dec/BottomJob.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/dec/BottomJob-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Beautiful International AP Bottom Paint!</center></strong><br>
We purchased but have not installed yet, new catamaran nets from <a href="https://multihullnets.com/Product/mhNets/MHMeshNets.aspx" target="_blank">MultihullNets</a> (aka Sunrise Yacht Products in St. Pete, FL). Pictured in this link are the nets that came installed on our boat when we bought it. But we have now upgraded to full "offshore" nets, with a strong open weave, more suitable to surviving the open ocean. Pics of those once installed (soon!)<br>
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Sherry had fun hanging out with the ladies--morning walks and "water dancing" in the pool for exercise. Dave had fun exchanging technical information with all the guys in the marina. We each took the time to give at least one "class" in the marina "library" to share some of our knowledge and experiences. Sherry on OpenCPN, Dave on LifePO4 batteries. (These presentations can be found at <a href="https://svsoggypaws.com/presentations.htm" target="_blank">https://svsoggypaws.com/presentations.htm</a>).<br>
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We enjoyed having a car for most of the time. One downside of Pangkor is its distance from the main part of town, with, astonishingly, no regular bus system. Grab (the "Uber" of SE Asia) cars are scarce at peak times from the marina. The marina will rent a "beater" for a cheap price by the hour, so you aren't completely stuck. But we opted to rent a car by the month. A nearly new air conditioned small car is only about $250/mo.<br>
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The weather since we left 5 days ago has been stinky... low overcast and drizzly with wind out of the north (on our nose, of course). Yesterday it finally cleared up, and we had the tide with us, for once. We were making 8 knots under sail (and current) for 4-5 hours.<br>
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We are now in Kuah, Langkawi, Malaysia, getting ready to check out for Thailand. We made a quick stop in Penang to try to get Thai Visas, but the timing didn't work out. We are on a schedule to get checked into Phuket Thailand before Christmas, because some of our friends from last years' rally have organized a big Christmas Day lunch that we want to attend. So waiting over the weekend in Penang wouldn't have worked. We did spend half a day sightseeing (taking the local 50-cent bus into town). Could easily have spent several weeks in Penang exploring.<br>
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Likewise, we will only stay a day in Langkawi. Another place worthy of a month or two to explore and savor. But, alas, "You can't see everything."Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-71127180110547412862023-09-11T05:01:00.087+09:002023-12-17T10:54:29.893+09:00Our Trip to Laos and Vietnam<b>August 15 - September 6, 2023</b><br>
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Just about the time we were finishing boat work in the yard in Pangkor Marina, Malaysia, we realized our 60-day tourist visa was running out. The plan HAD been to cruise in Soggy Paws up to Thailand, spend a few weeks, and cruise back to the marina to put the boat up for a couple of months' trip back to the USA. But as projects dragged out, the time we would have to spend in Thailand got smaller and smaller. We eventually decided to skip Thailand for now and fly to Vietnam instead.<br>
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We didn't spend a lot of time planning this trip. At first, we looked at a <a href="https://www.gadventures.com/trips/classic-vietnam-hanoi-to-ho-chi-minh-city/4330/itinerary/" target="_blank">"G-Adventures" 10-day tour</a>. I had done a G-Adventures tour to India with my daughter Nicki a few years back--it was fun, well organized, and not too expensive. Best: I didn't have to do any planning! But after letting Dave browse through a Lonely Planet, he decided that a tour like that would skip too much. So we expanded our timeline from 12 days to 23 days and started laying out a rough plan. "It will be easy," he said. "We'll plan and book the first few days, and then wing it from there."<br>
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We looked at what the G-Adventures tour offered, and gathered up all the cruiser-generated info we could find (mainly trip reports from friends). (Our resulting "Compendium" of Vietnam travel information is linked as a PDF at the bottom of our <a href="https://svsoggypaws.com/travel_vietnam.htm"><b>Vietnam/Laos Travel Page</b></a>).<br>
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One of the first things we did was decide to include a quick stop in Laos, just to see a little of that country, and add another country to our "countries visited" list. (This is after we read the <a href="http://www.svocelot.com/Landfalls/Newsletters/Laos/Laos.htm" target="_blank">Laos trip report</a> from our friends on s/v Ocelot.)<br>
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Though it IS possible to get to Vietnam from Malaysia without flying (friends have done it overland and down the Mekong River), we were short on time, so several major hops were done by airplane. It turns out that Vietnam is quite a LONG country. We ended up also scheduling a few jumps on overnight trains. And buses and "Limo-vans" filled in the rest of the transportation.<br>
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Here is the overview of the trip:<br>
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- Bus from Pangkor to Kuala Lumpur Airport<br>
- Air Asia flight (thru Bangkok) to Luang Prabang, Laos<br>
- A few days in Laos<br>
- Laos Airlines flight to Hanoi<br>
- 3 days in Hanoi and surrounding areas<br>
- Sapa (mountains to NW of Hanoi)<br>
- Halong Bay (cruise destination east of Hanoi)<br>
- Start working our way south through the central area<br>
- Stops at a couple of national parks<br>
- DMZ, Hue, Danang, and Hoi An<br>
- Fly to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City and spend a few days there<br>
- Fly back thru Singapore to Ipoh (a 2 hour drive from Pangkor)<br>
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Our day-by-day schedule and some tips and links to where we stayed are included on our <a href="https://svsoggypaws.com/travel_vietnam.htm">Vietnam and Laos Travel Page<b></b></a>. We couldn't have done nearly as much without the help of Tung at <a href="https://hanoioldquartertravel.com/" target="_blank">Hanoi Old Quarter Travel</a><br>
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When I get time I hope to add some more pictures here.
Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-71258657694658910762023-08-02T10:19:00.001+09:002023-12-18T11:03:22.507+09:00Cameron Highlands, Malaysia(sorry, I've wanted to catch up by back-posting blogs from our trip through Indonesia from last year, but just haven't gotten to it).<br>
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We've been talking about wanting to go see the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia for awhile. But boat work just seemed to be taking up all our time. Dave finally figured out a way to work in a trip. He found out from another cruiser that there was a place in Kuala Lumpur (capital of Malaysia) that does hydrostatic testing on dive tanks really cheaply. And, in testing our ham radio, he found low power output, and there's a guy someone knows that repairs ham radios, also in KL.<br>
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So, he decided we just HAD to go to KL and take our stuff there, and while we were waiting for the stuff to be finished, we could take a short side-trip to Cameron Highlands. When he decided that, he hadn't looked at a map--he thought KL would be a shortcut to the highlands. But (see the map), Cameron Highlands is not very far inland from where we are at Pangkor Marina. Google says we can drive there in 3 1/2 hours (on a weekday). But going via Kuala Lumpur extended the trip to 7 hours!<br>
<a href="https://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/ShortCut.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="https://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/ShortCut.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The "Short Cut" to Cameron Highlands via Kuala Lumpur</center></strong>
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So we decided to stay overnight. I found a great deal at a Hilton Garden Hotel near our first stop on Monday morning (SK Cryogenics, the hydro test people) for only $50 per night. With a car, in a big city, "free parking" is one of the first amenities you check when booking a place. This was a nice hotel with a buffet breakfast (extra cost), a VERY comfy bed, and a decent view of the city. Highly recommend the Hilton Garden Inn Pahong if you're spending a night in that part of the city.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hilton1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hilton1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Room at the Hilton Garden Inn</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hilton2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hilton2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Bed Decorations!</center></strong>
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One thing we didn't realize before we took off was that the roads in Malaysia are pretty darned 1st world, which also includes tolls. But they don't have the ticket system that they have in the USA, and of course, having never been out of the immediate area of the marina, no electronic toll device. And there's no "toss some coins at the machine" booths either. You have to go through the truck lane, and the person in the booth looks at you like you have 2 heads. "You don't have a Touch n Go card?" And of course the cars behind you are backing up while the toll person writes out a receipt... After doing that a few times on our way into KL, we vowed to get our own Touch n Go card. One of the ladies in a toll booth said "get them at any gas station or 7-11". Someone else told us, "get them at the toll booth admin building" (just after most toll booths). Well, we stopped everywhere, and everyone has "top up" (add credit to a card you have). Nobody is selling the cards.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Highway.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Highway-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>First World Driving!</center></strong>
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The guy at SK Cryogenics, when we dropped off the tanks, took pity on us and loaned us his spare card. We vowed to find our own card and return his when we came back to pick up the tanks in a few days. We probably stopped at 10 places before we gave up. No one is selling the cards (but you can buy them online), not even the toll booth admin buildings.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/SKCard.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/SKCard-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>SK Cryogenics - Bauer Dealer and Tank Hydro</center></strong>
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I knew we were in trouble as we started out of KL after dropping off both the tanks and the radios (of course, on the other end of the big city). I zoomed in on the route and saw that though the first 3/4 of the trip was all freeway, the last 1/4 was very a winding mountain road. It's only 60 km, that last bit, but it took us over 2 hours of fairly stressful driving.<br>
<a href="https://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Last10Miles.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="https://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Last10Miles.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Wiggly Road to Cameron Highlands</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Waterfall.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Waterfall-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Quick Stop at a Waterfall on the Way</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TouristStuff.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TouristStuff-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Local Handicrafts at the Waterfall</center></strong>
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We finally arrived in Cameron Highlands around 5pm. Fortunately we had no trouble getting into our (privately-owned AirBNB-type) room that we had booked on Agoda. It was mostly as described and OK for a couple of nights. The price was right and the location was pretty good--near town but not IN town. However, after staying there for a couple of days, we wouldn't recommend it. Though that apartment was decent, the condo building it's in (Barrington Square) is not being maintained, the stairways are full of trash, and the last night in a different unit in the same condo (because we wanted to extend and had to move to a different one), we killed about 20 roaches (mostly new hatchlings). Also if you came by bus and didn't have a car, it's a bit far into town for walking.<br>
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We spent 3 full days there. We booked one half-day tour to see the highlights of the tea farms, the butterfly sanctuary, etc. And we did some exploring on our own the other 2 days.<br>
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Cameron Highlands is a popular weekend spot for Malaysians, and we had been specifically warned to visit mid-week vs on the weekend. But it was still very busy and the traffic on the 2-lane road was pretty solid all the time. I can't imagine what it's like on summer weekends when the kids are out of school.<br>
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There is some historic value in the Highlands, as the Brits in the 1800's who could afford to, would retire to the Highlands during the hot months. It is definitely more pleasant in the Highlands during the summar. We enjoyed visiting the museum showing some of that history. We did enjoy a couple of walks in the forests, one with the tour and one on our own. But it was sort of a "meh" experience for us.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/WW2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/WW2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Historical Stuff at the Museum</center></strong>
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We did discover "hot pot" (also called "steamboat" there at Casa Osiana. This is where they put a cooker on your table, with a pot with 2 compartments, and some broth, and several plates of meats and raw vergetables. And you cook your food yourself right on the table. We requested a Thai Tom Yam base without any spice, and it was really delicious. The nice restaurant was empty except for us.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hotpot3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hotpot3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Nice Restaurant-Casa Osiana</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hotpot1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hotpot1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Hotpot Before Cooking</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hotpot2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Hotpot2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Look at all that Seafood!</center></strong>
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On our last night, we had dinner at The Smokehouse Hotel and Restaurant. That was also very good. And I'd recommend either of these places as a place to stay in a historic location. There are a ton of hotels and eateries in Tana Rata town proper.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Smokehouse1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Smokehouse1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Old Smokehouse Hotel and Restaurant</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Smokehouse2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Smokehouse2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Properly British Garden for Afternoon Tea</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Smokehouse3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Smokehouse3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And a Cozy Place for Cool Nights in the Highlands</center></strong>
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The most recommended tour company (in an older Lonely Planet as well as online) apparently went bust during the Covid Pandemic. We walked to the location that was listed for it and nothing was there but a hotel. But that hotel booked us the tour we were looking for from a different operator. They all seem to go to the same places.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Tour.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Tour-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Tour Company We Used</center></strong>
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Sights from our Tour Below<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/MossyForestHike.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/MossyForestHike-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Short Hike to the Famed Mossy Forest</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Butterfly1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Butterfly1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Butterfly Farm</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Butterfly2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Butterfly2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Butterfly Farm</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Butterfly3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Butterfly3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Butterfly Farm</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/ButterflySnakes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/ButterflySnakes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>More than Just Butterflies at the Butterfly Farm!</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/StrawberryFarm1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/StrawberryFarm1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And we Visit a Strawberry Farm</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/StrawberryFarm.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/StrawberryFarm-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Strawberry Farm</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/StrawberryFarm2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/StrawberryFarm2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>U-Pick Strawberries</center></strong>
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And of course, no visit to Cameron Highlands would be complete without a visit to a Tea Plantation.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaHills.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaHills-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Acres and Acres (Hectares) of Tea</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/AcresofTea.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/AcresofTea-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Acres and Acres (Hectares) of Tea</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Tea1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Tea1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Acres and Acres (Hectares) of Tea</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Tea1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Tea1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Acres and Acres (Hectares) of Tea</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaWorkers3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaWorkers3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Harvesting the Tea</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaWorkers2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaWorkers2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaWorkers.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaWorkers-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaBoh.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/TeaBoh-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Tea Tour and Tea Tasting</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Temple.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/Temple-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Final Stop on the Tour - A Hindu Temple</center></strong>
<br>
And we did do a little hiking and exploring on our own...
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/HikingMap.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/HikingMap-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We captured the hiking map on our cell phone</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/SunsetHike.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/SunsetHike-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Sunset Drive and Short Hike to See the Far Valley</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/RobFalls1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/RobFalls1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Robinson Falls - A Nice Easy Hike</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/RobFalls2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 600px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2023/sep/RobFalls2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-62489837785757061112022-03-10T13:13:00.222+09:002023-06-19T19:26:23.260+09:00Messing Around in Raja Ampat<p>We made it to Raja Ampat, our 4th visit here since 2016.</p><p>After 3 weeks in the boonies, the first order of business was getting re-stocked with food and fuel. So we decided to pull into the marina.</p>
<p><b>Early March: A Few Days at Tampa Garam: </b>We opted to go into Wick's Tampa Garam "Marina" on Feb 28. We had been in there on our trip back from Papua New Guinea in 2019, and so knew what to expect. This marina had been built as part of a resort complex that was no longer operating.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/TampaGaramEntrance.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/TampaGaramEntrance-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Narrow Entrance to Tampa Garam Marina, Sorong</center></strong><br>
There are a few permanently based boats in the marina basin, but not much in the way of a real marina. An ex-pat Australian named Wick (Warwick Alliston) who has 5 or 6 businesses in Sorong (the primary city in Raja Ampat) leased the space to accommodate visiting yachts.</p>
<p>The entry is narrow and has a half-sunk ferry and a controlling depth of about 10 feet at high tide. But Screensaver, with a 2.1m draft, got in with no issues at half tide. Contact Wick by Whatsapp, and he will arrange for someone to guide you in. Ourselves, with a 1.1m draft, and having been in before, we went in on our own.</p><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/WickCard.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/WickCard.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Wick's Contact Information</center></strong>
<p>In addition to managing 2 marinas, Wick also does a lot preventive maintenance for the huge diving industry in Raja Ampat. Tanks, compressors, etc. Plus he knows every tradesman in Sorong, so can be a great source of who to go to if you have a boat problem.</p>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/TampaGaramSoggyPaws.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/TampaGaramSoggyPaws-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>All Settled, Mediterranean Style, in the Marina</center></strong><br>
We were surprised to see a big motor yacht in at the marina. It turned out to be a guy I had been chatting with on FB Messenger--exchanging information on anchorages, etc. in Raja Ampat. He was appreciative of the extensive information we post on our website, and so invited all the cruisers (all 3 boats) aboard his beautiful yacht for dinner. Very nice guy, great staff, great dinner. They were on their way from the Philippines to take the boat home to Australia. We enjoyed hanging out with them for a few days.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/OntheYacht.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/OntheYacht-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>An Evening Aboard the Yacht</center></strong><br>
<p>There are no piers in the marina, just a nasty concrete wall with some tie-points. So you have to med-moor... drop your anchor in the middle of the basin and gently ease backwards and toss your lines to someone on shore. With our twin engines (and a dinghy or two standing by) it was no big deal.</p><p>The tide is about 6 ft in range, and the wall you are tying to is pretty broken, so everyone stands off a good 6-10 feet, and uses the dinghy to go ashore. We didn't like tying our rubber dinghy to the nasty wall, so usually left it at the head of the basin on a small dock (careful not to obstruct others' use of the dock).</p>
<p>We arrived on a holiday weekend and the pool associated with the resort (which, unlike the resort, is open) was jam packed. We went one time, but never went back.</p>
<a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/TampaGaramPool.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/TampaGaramPool-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Nice Pool at Tampa Garam</center></strong><br>
<p>This marina isn't very convenient to the main part of Sorong--the route minibuses don't come all the way out to the marina. The only solution is to take an Ojek--a motorcycle--to where the route minibuses turn around. Or get Wick to arrange a taxi. Air conditioned taxi rate about US $10 per hour.</p>
<p>We organized a trip via taxi to drop me at the grocery store, and Dave take the diesel jugs to the gas station, and then pick me back up at the grocery store.</p>
<a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/SorongDiesel1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/SorongDiesel1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Jugging Diesel...Car to Dinghy to Foredeck!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/SorongDiesel2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/SorongDiesel2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Cats Supervising, of course</center></strong><br>
<p>Cat food is scarce out here. Especially cat food the cats will actually eat. All during our cruise thru the Philippines last year I was trying them on different varieties of canned cat food, and they absolutely refused to eat it, no matter what the flavor. So, I kept doing what I had been doing--buying small "Tongkol" (very close relation to Little Tunny in the Atlantic) at the fish market, cooking them, and cleaning them. Here I am having fun again cleaning Tongkol. The cats, of course, are making sure Mom is doing it right.</p>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/CatFish.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/CatFish-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Sherry Making Cat Food</center></strong><br>
<p><b>Diving in Raja Ampat:</b> Since we had to come back to Sorong to renew our visas in a couple of weeks, we didn't spend too much time in the marina. We soon blasted off to go diving with <a href="https://rajaampatbiodiversity.com/" target="_blank">Biodiversity Eco Resort</a> We did a bunch of diving with them in 2016, during their off season. Now, with barely any tourists in Indonesia, they weren't really fully open, but said they could accommodate a few diving days, and we were trying to negotiate a good deal for all of us to dive.</p>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/Biodiversity.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/Biodiversity-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Gorgeous Beach at Biodiversity</center></strong><br>
<p>The whole dive negotiation got a little messy, though. Rather than diving as a group together, Yanina off Screensaver declared that she wanted her very own dive guide--to stay with her, at her side, the whole dive. She had had a couple of scares while diving recently, but desperately wanted to see what everyone was raving about under the surface in Raja Ampat, but she was also scared. Dave, on the other hand, wanted a guide that would range around and find critters for him to take pictures of. And Biodiversity only had one guide at that time. So we ended up splitting into 2 groups, diving separately, and couldn't negotiate much of a deal on price. So we didn't dive as much as we wanted to. But we did get a few dive days in.</p>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/SurfaceInterval.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/SurfaceInterval-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Lounging on the beach during a Surface Interval<br>Legendary Cape Kris in the Background</center></strong><br>
<p><b>Kabui Bay For A Few Days:</b> After we finished diving, we left Screensaver at Biodiversity and went up into Kabui Bay. We had gunk-holed a spot in the dinghy in 2016 that Dave really wanted to take Soggy Paws into...a very shallow sand spot unsuitable for monohulls. 00°25.05'S / 130°36.86'E<p>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/KabuiBayHideaway.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/KabuiBayHideaway-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Very Private Anchorage</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/KabuiBayHideaway2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/KabuiBayHideaway2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<p><b>A River Trip:</b> Another adventure we had in Kabui Bay is a dinghy trip up a river on the north side of Kabui Bay. We anchored the big boat off the river at 00°19.31' S / 130°35.75' E in about 8 feet of water (shallows slowly, pick your depth). Took the dinghy as far as we could go up the river... about 2-3 miles.</p>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/DinghyTrip.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/DinghyTrip-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Headed into the River</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/DinghyTrip2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/DinghyTrip2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/DinghyTripEnd.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 500px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/mar/DinghyTripEnd-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Marking the Very End on the GPS</center></strong><br>
<p>Stay Tuned for Part 2 of our Raja Ampat Adventures!</p>
Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0Raja Ampat Regency, West Papua, Indonesia-1.032046750338687 130.5052175718387-29.342280586517532 95.3489675718387 27.278187085840159 165.6614675718387tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-16970949122835899502022-03-01T16:45:00.149+09:002023-05-20T19:48:53.891+09:00On Our Way to Raja AmpatI can't believe it has been a year without a single blog post. It was a busy
year! This post is an effort to try to catch up on last year's adventures (Jan-Dec 2022) in May 2023. We are currently (May 2023) in Pangkor Marina, Malaysia, doing a lot of work to prep for next year's dash to the Mediterranean.<br />
<br /><b>Late Feb, 2022, location Bitung, NE Sulawesi, Indonesia.</b><br /><div>The last time we went from NE Sulawesi to Sorong, we went over the top of Halmahera, with a stop in Morotai and Wayag. We were leading a small rally that time, and our stops were cast in concrete.<div><a href="http://svsoggypaws.blogspot.com/2016/05/" target="_blank">2016 Rally to Raja Ampat</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>This time we went the other way around Halmahera / Maluku--south about.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/bitung-sorong-track.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/bitung-sorong-track-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Our Track from Bitung to Sorong</center></strong>
<div><br /></div><div>We blasted out of Bitung/Lembeh Strait on Feb 9, 2022, with a plan of making it
a long day-hop and anchoring overnight in the middle of the Molucca Sea
(between Sulawesi and Halmahera), at either the tiny island of Maju, or the even
tinier island of Gureda. This was after a heated discussion between the Captain,
who hates going overnight, and Navigator, who hates rushing all day--motoring
usually--to make it to some half-assed anchorage at the crack of dark, or maybe
after dark. We have this discussion regularly. In theory, if we got going at
just before daylight, and had good winds, we could make it the 72 miles to the
open roadstead anchorage at Maju. Nobody we knew had ever been there, but it
looked anchorable on a satellite picture. Though the island was misplaced by 3/4
of a mile--our anchor waypoint dropped using the satellite view plotted well
inland.<br />
<br />
Well, we didn't actually get underway right at the crack of dawn, and we ran
into some current going around the north tip of Lembeh Island, and the winds
were not good enough to consistently make the 6+ knots we needed to make.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/LeavingBitung.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/LeavingBitung-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Coming around the N End of Lembeh Island</center></strong><br />
I finally convinced Dave that we weren't going to make it before dark, and we should plan to go overnight. We hadn't seen a
fishing boat or a FAD for hours, and unlikely to encounter much out in the
middle. This ended up saving us 3 days of long up early-motorsailing all day-and
in late day-hopping. The next morning, we were approaching the islands off the
SW coast of Halmahera. By sunset we had made our way to an decent-looking
anchorage. This spot wasn't quite as good as it looked because the pretty beach
had been taken over by fishermen and a fish farm. We ended up anchoring in 72
feet at 00°01.40' S / 127°13.43' E. We had a little 2G internet--enough to pick
up email.<br />
<br />
Though there were some interesting places to explore on Halmahera, we had
already seen a bit of the island, and were hurrying to catch up with another
boat--Screensaver, with Alan and Yanina aboard. Alan had been loitering around
in hopes we would catch up, and we could cruise together for awhile. And THEY were on a schedule due to visa renewal issues.
So we
didn't really cruise this area, but proceeded south and east through the islands
just west of Bacan Island west of the southern peninsula of Halmahera. We spent
one night in an anchorage called Firefly Bay (00°26.94' S / 127° 16.44' E).
Cruisers a few years before had seen a lot of fireflies there, but we didn't see
any. No cell signal here.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/FastFerry.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/FastFerry-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>A Fast Ferry from Labuha</center></strong><br />
In 2 more days, we finally caught up with Screensaver. We ended up cruising
together with them for 3 weeks all the way to Sorong. The weather was good and
we were in a pretty remote area. As always, we could have spent weeks exploring
the area, but we were on a MISSION. My motto for 2020 had been "Singapore or
Bust", and it was Feb 2022 already and we had 5,000 miles to go still. Also, Screensaver had visas coming up for renewal soon, so we had to get to Sorong by March 1.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/SunsetForedeck.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/SunsetForedeck-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Ahhh! Sunset on the Foredeck with Friends--This is Why We Cruise!</center></strong><br />
It took a couple of days to finally clear Bacan Island. We stopped overnight
at a few small islands, and then we were treated to a long day SAIL to reach the
Boo Islands. We actually caught a fish on this sail!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Fish1.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Fish1-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Oh my Paws! What is that!?</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Fish2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Fish2-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Fish3.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Fish3-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
Here are our anchorages between south Bacan and Boo:<br />
<br />
Labuha 00°37.741' S / 127°27.664' E 25-45 ft mud. 4G.<div>Siliang 00°50.991' S / 127°43.784' E 25-50 ft sand. No cell </div><div>Waringen 00°48.376' S<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>/ 128°09.282' E 42 ft sand. No cell.</div><div>Damar 00°59.216' S / 128°22.382' E 40-45 ft sand, 30 ft bar</div><div>Tadoku 01°08.779' S / 128°25.998' E 15 ft, shallowing slowly.</div><div>Boo Chan 01°10.948' S / 129°22.419' E 52 ft, sand, buggy</div><div>Boo Beach 01°10.378' S / 129°23.673' E 45 ft nice sand beach</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Note: All of our anchorages have been send to Terry Sargent, and are maintained in the Indonesia Anchorage gpx file maintained by Terry. See <a href="https://svsoggypaws.com/TerrysTopics.htm" target="_blank"><b>Terry's Topics</b></a> to download this file, and his accompanying satellite charts.</div><div><div><br /></div>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/BooBeach.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/BooBeach-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 600px;" /></a><strong><center>Beautiful Anchorage in Boo Channel</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/BooIslands.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/BooIslands-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><center><strong>Our Track and Stops in the Boo Islands</strong><br />Click on the Picture to see a larger version</center><br />
<div>We did do a little playing as we cruised through the area. We got the drones out one day and took some nice pictures. Screensaver almost lost his drone by flying it too far away while we were underway (exploring the channel at Damar). We had to turn the boat around and race back to the launch spot to try to reconnect with the drone. These pics were taken with our drone at a pretty beach on Boo<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/DroneBeach.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/DroneBeach-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Pretty Beach Inside the Reef</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/ScreensaverDrone.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/ScreensaverDrone-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
The next stop was Kofiau,
another group of islands a little further east. We holed up here at for a few days due to bad weather. We managed to pick up a little cell signal by motoring around one day, halfway to the town on the north side of Kofiau Island.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Kofiau.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Kofiau-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><center><strong>Our Track and Stops in Kofiau</strong><br />Click on the Picture to see a larger version</center><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Kofiau2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Kofiau2-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
Then we finally made the jump to the west end of Batanta Island. This was another
long hop. We thought we had a good anchorage big enough for both boats
identified, but once we got there, it was too deep right up to the reef. One
boat may have been able to plant a hook somewhere, but definitely not 2. So,
with the light waning and a light drizzle, we moved east along the south coast
of Batanta, bay by bay, looking for a suitable anchorage. We finally found a
deep bay with a river emptying into the end of the bay. Sounding it out, we
found anchorable depths that looked like black sand all the way in, with enough
room for 2 boats. This turned out to be such a nice rain-foresty place that we
stayed for a day to enjoy the birds and the sounds of the waterfall. 00°53.806'
S / 130°28.233' E<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Rainforest.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Rainforest-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Anchored Next to a Rainforest</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Birdwatching.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/Birdwatching-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Birdwatching at Sunset on Batanta</center></strong><br />
We spent a few more days poking east along the south coast of Batanta before
finally arriving in Sorong on February 28. We couldn't really dally, however,
because Screensaver HAD to get to Sorong to renew their visas.</div><br />
<br>
We spent one night at Yefman Island--the site of a World War II Japanese airfield. After walking around and asking a few of the locals, we found a few bunkers still around.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/WW2BunkerYefman.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/WW2BunkerYefman-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>A WW2 Bunker at Yefman Island</center></strong><br />
Our last anchorage was a day anchorage off tiny/beautiful Matan Island. Yanina just HAD to go visit the beautiful sand spit, and what looked like nice coral for snorkeling. So we tagged along. It does look beautiful, but it's a lousy anchorage (too much coral), the locals want to charge you for stepping ashore, and the snorkeling wasn't very good (murky water).</div><div><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/MatanNearSorong.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/feb/MatanNearSorong-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Beautiful Looking but Crappy Anchorage at Matan Island</center></strong><br />
<br />An afternoon squall was brewing, so we left Screensaver there and went for a better anchorage.<br>
<br>
Guess who we finally hooked up with in Sorong, at Wick's Tampa Garam Marina? Our
old Soggy Paws. Poor girl had been stored for 2 years--the owner, whom we had
hope to hook up with in 2020, had left her at the marina to fly home to
Australia for 2 weeks. Then COVID happened, and he didn't get back for 2 years.
There was supposed to be some caretaking going on, but no boat does well sitting
for 2 years.<br />
<br />
We did eventually meet John, and actually shared an anchorage with him for a few weeks... but that's a story for another blog post.<br /></div></div></div></div>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-83013041298475549822022-02-10T16:12:00.004+09:002022-05-04T17:54:50.472+09:00Escape from Davao for Good!After 2 full years stuck in the Philippines due to Covid 19, we finally left Holiday Ocean View Marina at the top of Samal Island off Davao, Philippines, on 12 January. We had used this marina as a base for our multiple SE Asia cruising trips for the last seven years. It was well past the time to head further west through Indonesia, this time all the way to Singapore and the Malay/Thai peninsula, approximately 3,000 nm.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/2022Plan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/2022Plan-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Rough Route Plan for 2022</center></strong>
<br>
Our plan was to go south to Bitung, on the northeast corner of Sulawesi to check in to Indonesia, and do a little diving and sightseeing. Once cleared in, then we would make our way SE around Halmahera, and then on to Sorong, on the north tip of West Papua at the top of the island of New Guinea. After a few weeks of diving and exploring in Raja Ampat, we plan to cruise down the west coast of New Guinea via the McCluer Gulf to Triton Bay, one of our favorite dive spots that we last visited in 2017.<br>
<br>
From Triton Bay, we must sail south to Tual, in the Kai Islands in the SE corner of Indonesia to extend our visas. Once the paperwork is finished, we plan to cruise west through the Tanimbar Islands, Timor, Flores, Lombok, Bali, Java, South Borneo and Sumatra to Singapore.<br>
<br>
<b>Visa Extensions Control Our Schedule:</b> The current Indonesia tourist visas allow 60 days on entry and then four 30-day extensions, for a total of 6 months. This sounds reasonable for a tourist staying in one area, but is a real trial for a cruising boat trying cruise Indonesia. The recommendation is that you submit your extension paperwork approximately 5-7 days in advance of your current visa expiration date. So this leaves you only 3 weeks to get from one visa office to another. Cruisers continually are hurrying to their next visa extension—sometimes having to ignore the weather to make the schedule. This is not a good situation which we hope will be corrected soon!!<br>
<br>
We will do our first visa extension in Sorong. Then we have about 3 weeks to get to Tual in the Kai Islands for our next extension, about 450 nm away. It is dangerous to travel at night in most of SE Asia, due to the proliferation of unlit nets, fishing boats, FADs, and large logs and other debris. At a long travel day of 45 miles a day, 10 of our 21 days are taken up moving—long days motor sailing in the mostly wind-less equatorial environment. You see the problem??? And Indonesia is huge—2,300 nm East to West and 1,000 nm North to South, comprising over 17,000 islands! Once your 6 months are up you HAVE to leave the country to get a new visa (this was waived during Covid as all neighboring countries were locked down). Pre-Covid, most cruisers either cruised or flew out to a neighboring country to get a new visa.<br>
<br>
There ARE talks of a true 6 or 12 month visa for cruisers that doesn’t require monthly extensions, but so far it has only been talk. We are not sure whether the Covid-era “on shore visa” after your initial 6 months are up is still possible. We’ll find out in July!<br>
<br>
<b>The Trip South from Davao: </b>From Davao it is possible to day hop south via the Sarangani Islands at the southwest corner of Davao Gulf, through Sangihe Island and all the way to Sulawesi. Sarangani offers at least 4 good anchorages and is a favorite stop for cruisers on their way south. We also anchored overnight at Kawio, Sangihe, and Ruang along the way, but did not venture ashore as we were not yet checked into Indonesia. This is pretty cruising grounds because islands are volcanic in origin, and at least one volcano is still smoking.<br>
<br>
<a><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/RouteSouthfmDavao.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Route from Davao, Philippines to Bitung, Indonesia</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/SmokingVolcano.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/SmokingVolcano-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Ruang Volcano Smoking in the Distance</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/LavaFlow.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/LavaFlow-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A "Recent" Lava Flow (over 10 years ago)</center></strong><br>
<b><b>Bitung, Our Clearance Port: </b> </b>This commercial shipping port has a number of attractions for cruisers. Foremost of those is Lembeh Strait, “muck diving” capitol of the world. The black sand, somewhat littered bottom, is home to some of the most unusual small critters in the underwater world.<br>
<br>
While checking in and diving there, we anchored off <a href="http://solitude-lembeh.com/" target="_blank"><b>Solitude Resort</b></a> which is located a few miles north of the port of Bitung along the coast. Out of about 25 dive resorts operating when we were last there in 2017, Solitude is one of only 3 that are still operational during Covid lockdowns. <br>
<br>
The managers of Solitude, Patrick and Virson, were very accommodating both with their warm welcome and competitive pricing for our many dives with them. Patrick is a well-respected underwater photographer who gave Dave constant instruction to improve his underwater images. Virson, as assistant manager and an Indonesian, was extremely helpful with local knowledge and arranging for our land trips.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/LembehNudibranch1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/LembehNudibranch1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A One Inch Long Nudibranch</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/RibbonEel.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/RibbonEel-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Juvenile Ribbon Eel</center></strong><br>
<b>Formalities: </b>But before we could dive or go ashore we had to check to Indonesia. Although we had checked into Indonesia four times before on earlier trips, Covid 19 has changed things a bit.<br>
<br>
Previously, we could secure our own visa through the Indonesian Consulate in Davao for $50. But these overseas offices were all closed down in 2020 during Covid lockdowns. Instead, you can now arrange a visa electronically, but it requires the help of an official agent to obtain a visa that is good for longer than a 30 day stay. We used a visa company, Lureta Visa in Bali, to arrange the available B211A 6 month Visa.<br>
<br>
The current price for obtaining a visa varies widely depending on which agent you talk to, from $500 USD to $215 USD (per person). We shopped around a bit and managed to get our visas for $215 each. Newbies to Indonesia should choose the best sponsor, Raymond Lesmana, not the cheapest, as Raymond provides tons of support for cruisers who run into issues with formalities and language. One of the reasons the agent fees are so high is that the agents are guaranteeing your behavior and expense for deporting you if you misbehave.<br>
<br>
In addition to the normal paperwork (boat papers, passport copies, etc), we also had to submit proof of full Covid vaccination. For the boat paperwork, we also had to submit all the boat particulars on the online <a href="https://vds.beacukai.go.id/" target="_blank">Customs Vessel Declaration System</a>. This serves as our “notice of arrival”, as well as documents our boat details and valuation for Customs.<br>
<br>
On our previous visit to Bitung, we anchored in the port area and without contacting anyone, took our dinghy ashore and walked around to the various offices to do our clearance. (Immigration, Customs, Quarantine, Harbormaster). Back then, Quarantine was an afterthought! Not anymore! <br>
<br>
When we left Davao, the Covid procedure for entry into Indonesia was:<br>
- Negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure from last port<br>
- Covid test on arrival<br>
- 7 day quarantine<br>
- 2nd Covid test after 5 days<br>
- THEN all the officials would be permitted aboard to complete the clearance.<br>
<br>
So our first challenge was arranging for the Covid testing and quarantine on arrival, without going ashore. In a US port, contacting officials would be easy—VHF 16 would be the method, of course. But a friend who had preceded us into Bitung had called and called on Ch 16 and not received any reply. He eventually made contact with a taxi driver who’s number we had, who acted as his agent, arranging for a PCR test, and calling officials. This taxi driver eventually presented our friend with a bill for $500! We were shocked at this price, but had contacted a professional yacht agent, and were quoted $1,000 USD for the same service.<br>
<br>
After this experience, we asked around for ideas from our cruising friends. We found a friend who had a contact in the Tourism Office in Bitung, and this contact came through for us big time. Our Tourism helper was an energetic young man named Jeffrey. He was spectacularly helpful arranging for our Covid testing, interaction and transportation of officials and advice regarding resources in town and inland attractions. All this at no charge, as his boss assured us and him that this is their business (facilitating tourism).<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/JeffryandQuarantineOfficials.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/JeffryandQuarantineOfficials-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Jeffrey and the Quarantine Officials</center></strong><br>
A bonus… by the time we had island-hopped down the island chain between Davao and Bitung, the Bitung mayor had declared that yachts checking in to Bitung—because of the time required to get to Bitung from anywhere outside of Indonesia—did not need to quarantine. This was also due to Bitung’s high vaccination rate and low Covid incidence. (Cruisers at other ports in Indonesia were still required to quarantine at that time).<br>
<br>
Besides the diving in Lembeh Strait, we spent a day up in the highlands with Patrick and Virson seeing the area around Lake Tondano. The highlands area with a large lake, cool air and local culture are major tourist attractions to most tourists. In addition to the normal tourist sites, we also wanted to see the Japanese storage caves, historic Dutch Seaplane Base and nearby Langowan airfield, all used during World War 2 by the Japanese.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/JapaneseCaves.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/JapaneseCaves-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Caves built into the mountain by the Japanese<br>during World War II</center></strong><br>
The details of the WW2 sites in the Bitung/Manado area are documented on the <a href="http:%5C%5CPacificWrecks.org" target="_blank">Pacific Wrecks</a> website.<br>
<br>
The other inland trip we did was to nearby <a href="https://theworldtravelguy.com/tangkoko-national-park-nature-reserve-in-manado-sulawesi/" target="_blank"><b>Tangkoko National Park</b></a> for an overnight stay to see the Tarsiers (small squirrel-sized monkeys), Cuscus, monkeys, birds, and other wild animals in the jungle. We travelled by private car, arranged by the Solitude Resort, to Tangkoko Lodge. After a 3 hour drive, we arrived in time for lunch at the lodge. It’s also possible to make this trip by a relay of public transportation (motorcycle to town, mini-van to the transport hub, and truck to Tangkoko). This is much cheaper, but would take the whole day to accomplish.<br>
<br>
After lunch we used our pre-arranged guide, Mansuar Dalambide (look for him on Facebook) as our guide for a 5 hour afternoon hike in the park. He was able to find various birds, monkeys, lizards and the elusive Tarsiers and a Cuscus for us to photograph. The lodge arranged local less expensive car transportation back Solitude for us.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/TParkEntrance.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/TParkEntrance-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Tangkoko Park Entrance</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/Tarsier.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/Tarsier-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Nocturnal Tarsier Hiding in His Tree</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/Cuscus.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2022/jan/Cuscus-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Pair of Cuscus in the Forest</center></strong><br>
It was a comfortable and enjoyable trip except for a load of chiggers we both acquired on our legs and feet. We had been warned about “bugs” and took precautions—wearing long pants and shoes with socks, but that didn’t deter the chiggers at all. It took over a week to finally rid ourselves of the itching. Socks and long pants are necessary, but more important is a coating of strong bug spray underneath!<br>
<br>
Meanwhile, we’d communicated the warm welcome we received in Bitung back to our cruising friends in the Philippines, and two other boats followed us to Bitung in the following weeks. Several more we know of are planning to use Bitung as their check-in port in the next few months.<br>
<br>
After two weeks in Bitung, we needed to head out for Sorong, as our visa clock was ticking.<br>
<br>
We have written a very complete Indonesia check-in guide, with details, recommendations, costs, and links. It is posted as a PDF on our website in the Files section under Indonesia.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/files/#Indo" target="_blank">http://svsoggypaws.com/files/#Indo</a><br>
<br>
<b>Anchorage List</b><br>
Date Latitude Longitude Depth/Bottom Cell? Comments<br>
12-Jan 06°30.04’N 125°34.34’E 70 ft Sand Yes<br>
13-Jan 05°27.24’N 125°28.29’E 65 ft Mud/S No<br>
14-Jan 05°25.76’N 125°27.32’E 65 ft Sand Weak<br>
18-Jan 04°39.64’N 125°25.88’E 25 ft Sand Weak<br>
19-Jan 03°24.51’N 125-31.85’E 55 ft Sand No<br>
20-Jan 03°36.30’N 125°30.13’E 45 ft Sand 4G<br>
21-Jan 03°10.52’N 125°30.37’E 70 ft Sand No<br>
22-Jan 02°19.26’N 125°22.95’E 60 ft Sand Weak<br>
23-Jan 01°28.62’N 125°14.16’E 65 ft Sand 4G Solitude Bitung<br>
-------- 01°26.15’N 125°12.70’E 45 ft Sand 4G Bitung Port<br>
-------- 01°27.49’N 125°13.86’E 45 ft Sand 4G Serena Besar<br>
-------- 01°27.38’N 125°14.50’E 60 ft Sand 4G Off Lembeh Resort<br>
<br>
Note: All anchorages have been sent to Terry Sargent on s/v Valhalla, and can be downloaded as part of the Indonesia Anchorage waypoints, via this link: <a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/terrystopics.htm" target="_blank">http://svsoggypaws.com/terrystopics.htm</a> Download the doc file from that page, and it contains links to all kinds of useful information for cruising SE Asia.Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0Bitung, Bitung City, North Sulawesi, Indonesia1.4403744 125.1216524-26.869859436178846 89.9654024 29.750608236178845 160.27790240000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-18496878412228335252021-12-31T16:27:00.002+09:002022-11-30T17:19:20.900+09:00Back to Oceanview MarinaThe trip back to Holiday Oceanview Marina, down the coast of Mindanao was relatively uneventful.<br>
<br>
We stopped in Bucas Grande for a couple of days, and got the drone out.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/BucasGrande2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/BucasGrande2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Beautiful Bucas Grande</center></strong>
<br>
Most of the trip south was a wind-less motorsail. Some days we didn't even take the awning down.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/WindlessMotor.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/WindlessMotor-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Motoring South with No Wind</center></strong>
<br>
We met the usual wide array of fishing boats.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Bangkas.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Bangkas-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Fishing Boats</center></strong>
<br>
And some friendly kids who wanted us to stay and visit their village.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/FriendlyKids.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/FriendlyKids-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Friendly Kids!</center></strong>
<br>
I dropped my cell phone from the helm station--about a 4 ft drop--and it landed on the corner. Eventually this purple stuff crept all the way up the screen, making the phone unusable. I was forced to move to a standby, a very old Samsung Galazy S3. I see a new cell phone in my future!! (I did end up buying a new phone, but also got the screen on the old phone fixed).
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/DroppedPhone.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/DroppedPhone-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Broken Phone</center></strong>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Sunset.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Sunset-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>One of our Last Sunsets</center></strong>
<br>
We arrived back at Oceanview Marina on Nov 15 and COVID protocols were still in place. We were told we had to go to the health center on the island for a COVID test. But when we got there, they said we didn't need it. We also were told we had to quarantine for 5 days. But 4 days into the quarantine, they also removed that requirement.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/InQuarantine.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/InQuarantine-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Soggy Paws and Meikyo Sharing Quarantine</center></strong>
<br>
We spent most of December getting ready for our leap into Indonesia in January. The requirements to enter Indonesia were still a moving target, but by god, we were going to get going!
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Provisioning1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Provisioning1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Required Provisions for Us and the Cats</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Provisioning2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/Provisioning2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/PCRTesting.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/PCRTesting-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Checking out PCR Testing Facilities in Davao</center></strong>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/ChristmasEveDinner.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/nov/ChristmasEveDinner-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We Had a Very Nice Christmas Eve Dinner with the HOV Gang</center></strong>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-1726945193539999342021-11-04T15:45:00.001+09:002022-11-30T16:25:31.540+09:00Diving Bohol (Not!)As we started to think about heading back to Samal Island, we wanted to try to dive in "legendary" Bohol. We contacted a dive operation on the east coast, and they were excited to have us come by and dive with them. At this point in time, the Philippines were still not letting foreigners into the country due to COVID fears, so all the tourism-based operations were absolutely dying.
<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/SPass.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><strong><center>The S Pass</center></strong>
<br>
Bohol had been rigidly closed during the pandemic for over a year for all but Bohol residents. But the Bohol local government had recently "opened up" with a requirement for an "S-Pass" for visitors to Bohol. This is an online "check your vax status" mechanism.<br>
<br>We were fully vaxxed and had the paperwork to prove it. The S-Pass site wanted verification from the Philippines Government site. Everyone giving vaccinations were supposed to be uploading completed vaccination information to the central government website. But our vax site was apparently WAY behind in uploading the data, so the S-Pass site said we were not vaccinated. As we had paid $100 USD to a private clinic to get Moderna vaccinations, we were pretty upset that our vax confirmations were still not registered on the Philippines Government site. So, we could not get an S-Pass.<br>
<br>
We provided copies of our vaccination proof to the dive resort on Bohol, and asked them if we could just anchor off their resort for a couple of days and dive with them. We asked them to get approval from the local council. Well, they couldn't manage getting around the government beauracracy and the insistance on an S-Pass. So sad, for them and for us.<br>
<br>
So, we called up our old friend at Southern Leyte Divers at Padre Burgos, and asked if we could come dive with him. Actually, I think the same restrictions were in place in Leyte as in Bohol, but at this point, this guy didn't care. He knew if we anchored off, just dove with them, and didn't go into town, nobody would question him or us. So we stayed there for 3-4 days, had some nice dinners ashore, and some nice dives.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/SLeyteDiveBoat.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/SLeyteDiveBoat-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Southern Leyte Divers Dive Boat</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/PurpleAnemone.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/PurpleAnemone-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>An Anemone Showing its Colors</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/Nudi.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/Nudi-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Nice Nudibranch</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/Lizardfish.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/Lizardfish-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Ferocious Looking Lizard Fish</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/MikeLiliane.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/MikeLiliane-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We also met up with Mike and Liliane from SV Meikyo, who were also on their way back to Samal Island.</center></strong>
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On 4 November we started the trip south to Samal Island.Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-62777643793852230372021-10-20T15:15:00.031+09:002022-11-30T15:44:56.607+09:00US Ham Exams in the PhilippinesOnce we were finished having fun in Catbalogan, we spent most of October bouncing between Camotes and Carmen. During that time, we held 2 ham exam sessions. Amateur (aka Ham) radio licenses are regulated by the US Government. But they have delegated the process of actually giving the exams to "Volunteer Examiners". Dave and I are a member of the Laurel Volunteer Examiner group in Maryland in the USA. About 5 years ago, the Seven Seas Cruising Association partnered with this organization to allow roving SSCA members with the correct credentials to give ham exams wherever in the world we are.
<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/LaurelLogo.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><strong><center>Laurel VEC</center></strong><br>
All the exam materials (randomly generated multiple choice exams) are generated online (we have to download and print), and once scored, we have a program to enter the pass/fail information to submit the results electronically to the FCC.<br>
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We have held ham exams in Palau, several times in the Philippines, and New Zealand.<br>
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We started talking to one guy who was asking about communications when sailing offshore. This guy was on a really tight budget, so we told him about doing email using HF Radio via Winlink. The equipment to do this is about the same cost as an Iridium Go, but once you are set up, you can sent and receive email, and download weather for FREE. Besides the equipment, the only requirement is a valid ham license.<br>
<br>
So one thing led to another, and we organized a ham exam session. We needed 3 "Extra" class ham licensees, and as luck would have it, another cruiser in the bay had the credentials to become our 3rd examiner. This worked well on the first session, but on the 2nd session, our 3rd guy had moved on. We miraculously were able to hook up with a Filipino in Cebu who was also an Extra Class US licensee, so he was our 3rd guy on the 2nd session.
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/ExamineesHardatWork.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/ExamineesHardatWork-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Examinees Taking Tests in Zeke's Bar at Port Carmen</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/SuccessfulExams1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/SuccessfulExams1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>First Session Sep 20 Successful Examinees</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/2ndSession.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/oct/2ndSession-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Second Session Oct 10</center></strong>
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Two of the examinees were able to test their way all the way to Extra Class!Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-71574353431512555052021-09-26T16:03:00.002+09:002022-05-26T16:59:47.037+09:00Adventures in Samar - Caving, Canyoning, and SightseeingSep 2021, Samar Island, Philippines<br>
<br>
We actually made 3 short visits to Catbalogan, the capital of Samar Island, Philippines in September 2021. The initial reason was to go caving with Joni Bonifacio of Trexplorers. Dave loves caves, and Joni is THE caving expert in the Philippines. I am not a big fan of caves unless it is a big lighted cave with handrails and a nice walkway (ie Luray Caverns in the USA). So, with the cat off to the vet for emergency surgery, I took advantage of the situation and stayed onboard to "wait for the cat". Dave went caving with our friend Paul from s/v Ttaack, and Paul's girlfriend.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/JonisPlace.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/JonisPlace-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Joni Bonifacio's Trexplorer Shop</center></strong><br>
They had a blast--hiking to 2 different caves and then exploring each cave. But it was a strenuous day, and Dave's shoes were not up to the slippery cave floors. He came home with a fairly significant gash in his forehead from a slip and fall. Joni arranged everything, including motorcycle transportation to the starting point, porters to carry gear and food, and proper helmets and good headlamps. Joni carries an iPhone in a waterproof box and takes prolific pictures. At the end of each adventure, he put together a short video about the adventure. There are a few pics here you can scroll through (and click on each picture for a bigger version if you want), but if you're into video, here's the Youtube link for Dave and Paul's Trexplorer caving adventure: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlV1e4bV6nM" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlV1e4bV6nM</a><br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/OurTransport.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/OurTransport-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Transport to the Start of the Hike</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/VillageKids.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/VillageKids-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Kids in the Village Where the Hike Started</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HikeIn.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HikeIn-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Hiking in to the First Cave</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/LoboCaveSign.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/LoboCaveSign-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Entrance to the Lobo Cave Complex</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/PreppedforCave.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/PreppedforCave-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>All Properly Kitted for Our First Cave</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Some Serious Cave Exploration!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave4-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave5-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave6.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/InsideCave6-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/CavePearls.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/CavePearls-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Cave Pearls!</center></strong><br>
So we hiked in to the first cave, then came out, had lunch and hiked to the second cave.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Lunch.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Lunch-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A well-deserved lunch before our next hike!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Hike2NextCave.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Hike2NextCave-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And Onward and Upward to the Second Cave</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>This Cave Is Even Bigger!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>At least it's bigger in some places!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave4-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/NextCave5-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HikeOut.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HikeOut-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Whew! Finally done and resting before hiking out!</center></strong><br>
This was really an exhausting trip--way more strenuous than they had imagined. (I was really glad I had opted out for this one).<br>
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On a second visit to Catbalogan, Dave and I went "Canyoning" with Joni. We only had a vague idea of what this was, but it sounded like fun--rappelling down into a river canyon and walking down the river. What it actually turned out to be was a series of 7 waterfalls as the river descends into the valley, and we rappelled down some of them and jumped down others. And waded and swam down to the next one. It was a fun trip--a little physically challenging, but not too bad. Besides the actual rappelling, there was a 2 hour hike up along the river bank to the top of the canyon. (This part Joni never mentioned in his description of "canyoning").<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/1Canyoning-Porters.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/1Canyoning-Porters-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Starting Our Hike With the Porters Who Carried all the Gear</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/2GettingKitted.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/2GettingKitted-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Getting Kitted Out with all the Gear</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/3GettingKitted2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/3GettingKitted2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/4Practicing.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/4Practicing-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We Practice Rappeling On a Tree</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/5FirstRappel.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/5FirstRappel-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our First Rappel Looks Pretty Scary!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/6Sherry1st.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/6Sherry1st-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dave Sez "Ladies First!"</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/7DaveNext.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/7DaveNext-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Joni Requires a Thumbs Up (Dave not so sure!)</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/8MadeIt.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/8MadeIt-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We Made It! Only 6 More to Go...</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/9ScramblingRocks.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/9ScramblingRocks-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>In Some Places There Was a Lot of Rock-Scrambling</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/10Next.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/10Next-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>More Rappelling--This One With a Jump at the End</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/11AndJump.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/11AndJump-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And Jump!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/12InCanyon.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/12InCanyon-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/13SeriousSwimming.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/13SeriousSwimming-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>In Other Places We Did Some Serious Swimming</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/14DaveJumping.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/14DaveJumping-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/15Lunch.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/15Lunch-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Joni Had Packed in a Nice Lunch for Us!</center></strong><br>
We did a total of 7 descents, and a lot of rock scrambling and/or swimming in between each one. Lots of fun, but we were glad to finally reach the bottom. I kept wondering... what if there's a heavy rainfall? But I'm sure Joni had that figured out. We felth very safe with him. He has led a number of international caving, mountain biking, and canyoning expeditions. And his gear was top notch.<br>
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If you want to see a play-by-play of our canyoning trip with more detail, Joni made a 30 minute Youtube of our day of canyoning adventure.<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3hQIf_sMOw" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3hQIf_sMOw</a><br>
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On another day, our new friend Gary invited us to go hiking over on Daram Island nearby (SW of Buri). We went in his speedboat. On arriving in the little town at the base of the hill, we asked for a guide to show us the way. We ended up with 4 nice young men.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/GarysBoat.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/GarysBoat-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Gary's Speedboat</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/TheTown.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/TheTown-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Town at the Base of the Hill</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/TheTown2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/TheTown2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Narrow Streets Along the Waterfront</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/CarParked.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/CarParked-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Someone's "Car" Parked by their House</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/LookingforGuide.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/LookingforGuide-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We Go Searching for a Guide</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/OurGuides.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/OurGuides-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Guides</center></strong><br>
It was a nice day, but hot up on the hill with no trees. Great views, though!<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/UptheHill.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/UptheHill-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Long Hot Hike Up the Hill</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Cow.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Cow-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Friendly Fellow</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/StatuePose.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/StatuePose-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>At the Top we Find a Big Monument</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/GreatView.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/GreatView-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And a GREAT View</center></strong><br>
We loved hanging out at Buri Beach and Catbalogan Town. Sorry we didn't have more time to hang there. For those of you who want to know where it is... here's a <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/igshvZJgnHbNGxG6A" target="_blank">Google Maps Link</a><br>
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Next... some of our "inland adventures" touring around Samar and Tacloban.Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-6416596539322391842021-09-12T14:05:00.001+09:002022-11-30T15:05:19.279+09:00Day Trip to MacArthur Memorial National Park in TaclobanAnother thing Dave wanted to do while we were in the Catbalogan area was bus to Tacloban to see the MacArthur Landing Memorial National Park.<br>
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<strong>Short history lesson: </strong> In brief, at the start of World War II, General Douglas MacArthur was in command of all US troops in the Philippines. When the Japanese attacked Manila a day or so after Pearl Harbor, it quickly became obvious that the Japanese were way more prepared than the Americans were. As the defense of the PHilippines turned into a seige, President Truman ordered General MacArthur to leave the Philippines ASAP, rather than risk capture by the Japanese. In the stealth of night, MacArthur escaped in a PT boat, eventually making his way to Australia, where he assumed command of Allied forces in the Western Pacific. When he arrived in Australia, he made his famous "I Shall Return" speech.
<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/PT-32.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><strong><center>One of the PT boats that escorted MacArthur out of the Philippines</center></strong>
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And after 3 years of bitter fighting, taking back the western Pacific island by island, he did return to the Philippines. This park commemorates that historic day when we did return to help liberate the Philippines.<b>
<b>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/DaveParkSign.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/DaveParkSign-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>At the Park</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Proclamation.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Proclamation-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
Though MacArthur acted like the return to the Philippines was all his doing, he had a LOT of help, and not just from Americans.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/AustralianPlaque.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/AustralianPlaque-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Commemorating some of the "Helpers"</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/MacArthurStatues.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/MacArthurStatues-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Statues depicting MacArthur and Staff Wading Ashore</center></strong>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/MacArthurStatues2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/MacArthurStatues2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
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Other than the statues and the placques, there wasn't much to see. The "Museum" was closed.<br>
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The other place Dave wanted to visit was a hotel where MacArthur stayed, and which has a little historical gallery.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HotelAlejandro.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HotelAlejandro-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Hotel Alejandro</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HotelAlejandro2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HotelAlejandro2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HotelAlejandro3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/HotelAlejandro3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-51202034324637374032021-09-10T21:00:00.001+09:002022-11-30T13:58:42.679+09:00Five Islands and the Pop-up TyphoonThere is a small group of islands just in from the San Bernadino Straits (a site of a WWII battle between Japanese and American fleets). One our chart they are shown as the Naranjo Islands, but cruisers call them the Five Islands or Medio Islands. Some cruiser had said how wonderful they were, so Dave wanted to go see them.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Map5IslandsOvw.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Map5IslandsOvw-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Overview of Naranjo Islands (Five Islands)</center></strong>
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We took off from Catbalogan with our friend Paul on Ttaaack. It took us 2 days to get up there, stopping overnight at Kirikite Island. Here again we saw the devastation from COVID. A once thriving dive resort was totally abandoned. We were sailing in light SW winds, so we did actually get some "pure sailing" time in.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/TTaak.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/TTaak1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>TTaak</center></strong>
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The next day I went on a drift dive with Paul. That was one crazy dive. Where we were anchored, there were a few swirly currents. I figured we were going to dive on the reefs along the wall near shore, out of the current. But Paul wanted to see what it was like out in the blue. Instead of the wall we expected, it was just a slope, gradually getting deeper, and the current getting stronger. We ended up in 5-7 knots of current (towing Paul's lightweight dinghy). You can't really do anything when there's that much current, so we decided to surface slowly.<br>
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That was a crazy trip up to the surface! The current was swirling so much, it was all we could do to just hang onto the dinghy painter and try to control our speed going up. Several times there were strong down-currents. For less experienced divers, this could have been a very dangerous dive. When we got on the surface, Paul said "That was fun, want to do it again?" "Heck no!"<br>
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That afternoon, we moved around to an anchorage off of "Pink Beach". This was a beautiful white sand beach with a pinkish tinge to it, from bits of red coral being mixed in with the sand.
<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/PinkBeach.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><strong><center>Pink Beach</center></strong>
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We had hardly gotten our anchor down when a guy on a jet ski approached us. This turned out to be Karl, who was a friend of a friend. Karls owns a resort/house on Crystal Sand Beach. He encouraged us to come around to his bay and come in for drinks and dinner. So we did.<br>
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We'd been watching the slow development of a tropical wave to the east of us. It wasn't forecast to develop. By the next afternoon, the forecast was for 30 knot winds and squally conditions the next morning. We weren't in a perfectly sheltered place but we could manage 30 knots. We went ashore to have dinner with Karl, and when we returned to the boats at 10pm, the storm had been upgraded to Tropical Storm Conson, and they were now forecasting winds to 50 knots where we were, tomorrow. Shit! Not much we could do that night. Overnight we had wind gusts to 25 knots, and the currents in this bay swirl around. Taack bumped into us in the middle of the night, and opted to move a little further away.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/ConsonTrack.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/ConsonTrack-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong>
At 0530 we had a conference via Radio with Paul, what to do. The bay where we were had 3-5 swells rolling in. There is no fully protected allweather place in the Medio Islands. The wind seemed to be shifting toward the NW, so we decided to go around to an area between the islands, that looked the most protected from NW winds. Well, all the local boats had gotten there first. There wasn't any place to anchor out of the wind, and trying to anchor in 50 knot winds--we abandoned the attempt after 3 tries.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Whiteout.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/sep/Whiteout-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Trying to Anchor in 50 knots of Wind and Pouring Rain</center></strong>
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Ultimately, we decided to just hang out on the lee side of the island (not really anchorable due to depths and swell) for a couple of hours. We just motored slowly back and forth to stay in the less. The wind was shifting fast, so we could tell the low pressure area was moving through quickly. Taack went back around to Crystal Sands Beach and told us the conditions were better. So we went back around there and anchored. But as the winds kept shifting, it became untenable as the wind shifted south. So we moved again--back to Pink Beach, which was well protected from the now-south wind.<br>
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We were lucky, as Typhoon Conson/Jolina eventually strengthened up to a pretty strong storm.<br>
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We needed to get back to Catbalogan for a checkup for Charlie (the cat). So that afternoon we dinghied around to Karl's place to say goodbye.<br>
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The next day we headed back to Catbalogan via Libucan Island. It was a gusty day with wind close on the nose, and for a time we were doing 8 knots. But the wind switched and we bore off for Libucan Island.<br>
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The next day we were back in Buri Beach, and the cat went off the vets.<br>
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All the anchorage waypoints for this trip have been given to Terry Sargent of s/v Valhalla. You can download Terry's collection of waypoints for the Philippines, and a lot of other good stuff, from here: http://svsoggypaws.com/terrystopics.htm
Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-82793929744237089122021-08-30T14:38:00.142+09:002022-05-23T10:04:26.822+09:00Exploring N Central Visayas - Camotes to Malapascua and Catbalogan, SamarAugust 2021<br>
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I am not sure exactly what encompasses "The Visayas" technically. But we finally broke loose from the Carmen/Camotes shuffle on August 12, and headed a bit further north.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/Aug-Carmen-Catbalogan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/Aug-Carmen-Catbalogan-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Cruising Track for August</center></strong><br>
Our first stop north of Camotes was Calangaman Island, in the middle of the Camotes Sea. This is a pretty island that is now a park and has an access fee. We could anchor without paying a fee, but could not go ashore. We spent 2 nights here, and snorkeled the whole north coast, looking for an appropriate anchor spot. We also snorkled on a couple of the moorings. These were not really intended for cruising sailboats to stay on overnight, but for dive boats that are attended by crew and don't stay more than a few hours. But the setups looked hefty enough to hold a cruising boat in moderate weather. We anchored carefully in a sand patch on the south side. For the 2 nights we were there, there was virtually no wind, so we were OK on the S side. Our sand patch: 11°06.71'N / 124°15.03'E<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CalangamanIsland.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CalangamanIsland-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Sand Spit at Calangaman Island<br>(Photo courtesy of palompon-leyte.gov.ph)</center></strong><br>
From Calangaman, we made a quick trip back to Carmen, as we'd finally gotten notification that the Moderna vaccine we'd been waiting on was going to be available for only one day in Cebu City. So we hustled back, spent a day in Cebu City getting vaxxed, and hustled back out to do some more cruising.<br>
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The next stop was famed Malapascua Island, one of the most recommended diving locations in the Philippines. We had stopped here overnight in 2018 on our way to Puerto Galera, but didn't have time then to stay and dive. So we anchored in the same general area, near our friends on Meikyo and Wind Hog, on the south coast. This isn't a great anchorage in southerly winds! After a couple of choppy nights, we moved around to the SW corner, and it was much better.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/BangkasonBeach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/BangkasonBeach-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dive Bangkas Laid Up on the Beach at Malapascua</center></strong><br>
It was really sad to see Malapascua during the COVID lockdown of 2020/2021. On our previous stop there were over 50 dive boats, and hundreds of divers--boats full of divers coming and going from dawn to dusk. The Malapascua shoreline is lined with dive resorts big and small, and the beach was crowded with people and bangkas of every size. Sadly in August 2021, all but 2 resorts were closed, and those 2 resorts were barely hanging on, with minimal staff and only one boat active for each resort. Many many boats were stored up on the beach, decaying, even the really big bangkas.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/DiveBanka.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/DiveBanka-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Evolution Dive Boat--typical of Filipino Dive Boats</center></strong><br>
Our friends had already hooked up with <a href="https://evolution.com.ph/" target="_blank">Evolution Dive Center</a>, because they have tech diving support, and our friends wanted to use their rebreathers. So we did a few days of diving with Evolution. We did the iconic Thresher Shark dive, and actually saw a Thresher Shark and got a fairly decent picture of it. On this dive, you basically go down at the Thresher Shark area (a submerged reef in the Camotes Sea), and sit and wait at about 90 ft deep for the sharks to appear. They normally appear right around dawn, so the meeting time for the dive is at 4:30 am at Evolution!<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/SherryWaiting4Threshers.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/SherryWaiting4Threshers-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Sherry Trying to be Inconspicuous<br>While Waiting for the Sharks</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/ThresherShark.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/ThresherShark-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Big Thresher in Profile--see the tail?</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/ThresherShark2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/ThresherShark2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And This Friendly Guy Came a Little Closer</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/MikeTechGear.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/MikeTechGear-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Friend Mike with his Rebreather Setup</center></strong><br>
We also did a couple of very nice "critter dives" in two good spots on the north side of Malapascua.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/FlamboyantShrimp.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/FlamboyantShrimp-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Peacock Mantis Shrimp</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/Cuttlefish.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/Cuttlefish-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Pair of Curious Cuttlefish</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/NiceNudi.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/NiceNudi-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Halgerda Batangas Nudibranch</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/Nembrotha.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/Nembrotha-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Nembrotha Nudibranch Feeding on Soft Coral</center></strong><br>
Our final day of diving was at Gato Island (about an hour's motor north of Malapascua). The Gato Island dive starts with a neat swim through a natural cave/tunnel in the island.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/GatoIslandTunnel.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/GatoIslandTunnel-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>On the Bow of the Dive Boat<br>Cave/Tunnel through Gato Island Behind Us</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/GoingThrutheCave.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/GoingThrutheCave-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>In the Cave</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/PurpleAnemone.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/PurpleAnemone-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Beautiful Iridescent Anemone</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/FireUrchin.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/FireUrchin-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Fire Urchin</center></strong><br>
One of the last things we'd done in Carmen before we left was to get our kitten, Charlie, spayed. This turned out to be a real disaster--after 3 hours on the operating table, the "vet" declared she couldn't find Charlie's uterus, and so was just going to sew her back up and hand her back to us, unspayed. How traumatic for both us and Charlie! But it's my own fault--the vet hadn't wanted to do the surgery until Charlie was older. But after researching on the internet "Best time to get kitten spayed", I had pressed her to take care of Charlie then (at about 6 months). Little did I know that she was not competent to do so, no matter what age Charlie was.<br>
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So, the morning of our last day at Malapascua, about a week after the "surgery", Charlie started having trouble urinating. She was straining to "go" and only producing a few drops of urine at a time.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CharlieAntibiotics.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CharlieAntibiotics-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Charlie Did Not Like the Oral Antibiotics!</center></strong><br>
We should have aborted our diving that day and taken care of Charlie. But we'd already signed up for the dive, the dive boat required a minimum of 6 divers, and if we pulled out, our friends wouldn't be able to go. So we went, but I fretted about Charlie the whole day.<br>
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On returning from the dive, the dive shop tried to hook us up with a vet on the Cebu Island mainland nearby, but the only vet answering the phone was closing soon (it was already late Friday afternoon), and would not agree to see Charlie on Saturday morning, no matter how much we begged. What to do? We could go all the way back to Carmen (a full day's motor sail), but we'd still be faced with the same problem of getting access to a vet other than the one that butchered Charlie in the first place.<br>
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Meanwhile, we'd been talking to a contact at our next planned stop on Samar Island. Dave was looking for adventure, and had heard that Samar had a bunch of caves, and a "Caving" Tour company in Catbalogan City. He contact the famous caver... Joni Bonafacio and had asked him about anchoring in the area. Joni had put us in contact with Gary Munoz who lived at Buri Island near Catbalogan. When we explained to Gary that we might not be coming to Catbalogan because of our cat emergency, he said he knew of a vet in Catbalogan that lived on Buri Island, and he would arrange for that vet to look at Charlie when we arrived. We checked the charts and found that the distance from Malapascua to Catbalogan was far (almost 60 miles), but we could do it in a day if we got started early. So at the crack of dawn the next morning, we set out for Catabalogan and Buri Beach.<br>
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It was a long and tiring day. For awhile we were making great time--able to sail and doing 6-7 knots. But after we rounded the northwest tip of Leyte, we encountered a squall and wind on the nose at about 20 knots. Normally in those conditions, we would find an anchorage and just hole up and wait for better wind, but Charlie needed urgent attention, so we HAD to get to Catbalogan. We eventually made it in to the Buri Beach anchorage at around 4pm, wet and salty. Gary had arranged for the vet to meet us on the beach soon after our arrival, and take Charlie back to their office for a look at her incision. Remember, this is Saturday afternoon... the vet was crazy worried about COVID, so they didn't want us to accompany Charlie, but promised to keep her overnight and do what they could for her.<br>
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Long story short, it took 2 surgeries and about 2 weeks for this vet to fix the mess that the previous "vet" in Carmen had made. The immediate problem--Charlie's urinary tract being pinched due to a breach in the stitching--was solved on the first surgery.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CharlietoVet.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CharlietoVet-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Charlie Going in to the Vet for a Follow-Up Visit</center></strong><br>
It turned out that the non-invasive approach the vet took the first time was not enough to repair the total damage. A second, more invasive, surgery was required to open up the abdominal wall, try to properly position the organs that had been floating around in there, and re-stitch the abdominal wall and the outer skin covering. On the second surgery, Charlie's uterous was finally removed. This second surgery took a couple of hours, and the exhausted vet was not sure Charlie would pull through and recover completely. She does have some major scarring in that area, but she did thankfully recover completely.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VetVisitOntheBeach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VetVisitOntheBeach-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Husband and Wife Team at Cinco Family Clinic<br>(Pets Unlimited)<br>Treating Charlie on the Beach</center></strong><br>
These wonderful people literally saved our kitten's life--a husband and wife team who went WAY out of their way to help us out--evenings and weekends--and then refused payment for the second surgery. We are forever grateful!<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CharlieisOK.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/aug/CharlieisOK-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Month After the Original Surgery, Our Charlie is OK</center></strong><br>
Catbalogan and Samar Island are technically on lockdown due to COVID. All the normal tourism routes are shut down. But coming in by private boat and anchoring off a small island away from the city, we were flying under the radar. By this point in time we both had been double-vaxxed and had one of two planned Moderna vaccinations as well. So we didn't feel we were endangering anyone by traveling to Samar. Our mode of travel was very safe--little chance of catching COVID on our private boat vs traveling by crowded bus/ferry, or plane.<br>
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Next: Our Samar AdventuresSherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-3517229133018481052021-07-30T14:35:00.228+09:002022-05-22T17:09:01.856+09:00Doing the Carmen / Camotes ShuffleJune and July 2021<br>
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We finally broke out of Port Carmen on June 10, and headed out to the Camotes Islands, along with our friends on Java. We had met Evan on Java in Ecuador in 2009, and have bumped into him on and off across the Pacific. Evan is pretty much based in Port Carmen these days, where life is easy. We were excited to catch up with Evan and Nancy once again.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/Java.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/Java-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>
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The Camotes is a group of 3 islands in the middle of the Camotes Sea between Cebu Island and Leyte Island, only 15 miles from Carmen. Most of the waypoints and accounts of cruising the Camotes that I had were from people cruising during the winter season, when the wind blows out of the northeast. But this was summer and winds were S-SW. So the NE season anchorages wouldn't work at all. We had to find our own anchorage on the north side of Pacijan island.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/CamotesOverview.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/CamotesOverview-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Camotes, between Cebu Island and Leyte Island</center></strong>
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We followed Java in to their favorite spot, off the east end of the beach at Talong Diot, close enough that they could take their dog Micro into the beach on the kayak. This was an OK anchorage, but lots of noisy banka traffic, and not very good holding. The bottom looks like sand, but is really slick rock dotted with small coral heads. There is a reversing current between Talong Island and Pacijan Island.<br>
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The Tulang Diot beach on Pacijan is normally a tourist beach--and mainly for picking up tourists and transporting them out to Tulang Island. But with Covid, not many tourists on the island.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TalongBeach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TalongBeach-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Beautiful Beach at Talong</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/CamoteTouristBoats.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/CamotesTouristBoats-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>All the Tourist Bankas Waiting to Take Tourists out to Talong</center></strong>
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After the weekend, Java left to go back to Carmen, and we explored a bit and found another anchorage we liked better, near the west end of the beach. I snorkeled around until I found a sand spot clear enough of coral heads and shallow enough to anchor in. We wanted to check out a dive shop we had been messaging with, about doing some diving.<br>
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Rock Dive is just around the corner to the SW (off the picture, lower left corner). We dinghied around from our anchorage and met up with "Uncle Rock". We eventually made about 25 dives with him, and became good friends.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TalongIslandAnchorages.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TalongIslandAnchorages-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Talong (Tulang) Island Anchorages for SW Winds</center></strong>
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There were about 10 dive operations on Pacijan before Covid, and now there are only 2, and Rock Dive is one of them. Rock was surviving COVID by turning his low-end dive resort into a karaoke bar and restaurant. Plus he has a few amusing side businesses, including breeding horses and breeding Dalmation puppies.<br>
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Rock's original profession was accounting. But he hated the grind and hated accounting, so came to the Philippines to learn to dive, and eventually opened his own dive operation. His first shop was in Cebu, but he loved diving in the Camotes so much that he moved his operation to the Camotes a few years ago.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RocksKareokeBar.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RocksKareokeBar-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Rock's Dive Center and Karaoke Bar</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RocksRestaurant.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RocksRestaurant-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Great Waterfront View from Restaurant</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RocksRosemary.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RocksRosemary-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Rock's Pregnant Horse Rosemary</center></strong>
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We spent a few days diving with Rock at Talong Island, along the wall on the north side. This is an amazing wall, with lots of life, nudis, sea fans, and just a little current to move you along the wall.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/DaveSoftCoral.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/DaveSoftCoral-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Some Soft Coral Along the Wall</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/SherryandNemo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/SherryandNemo-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Sherry and Nemo</center></strong>
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When we got a period of really light south wind, we moved to the pretty beach town at the south end of Pacijan, at Santiago Bay. Here we found the other dive shop, and made a few dives on the south side.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/CamotesFunDiveSantiago.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/CamotesFunDiveSantiago-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Camotes Fun Dive Shop on Santiago Beach</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/SunsetVolleyballSantiago.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/SunsetVolleyballSantiago-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Locals Enjoying Beach Volleyball at Sunset</center></strong>
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We enjoyed the vibe at Santiago Beach. Lots of restaurants along the beach. But it's a long way in in the dinghy, the water gets very shallow, and the tides are a factor. You will wade to/from your dinghy, or find your dinghy high and dry. Both are friendly dive operations with good diving. Santiago Bay is better in NE season, and the Tulong area better in SW winds.<br>
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While in Santiago Bay, we rented motorcycles and Nerji, the Dive Shop owner, showed us all over the two islands. We hit all the tourist spots, including the Magellan Monument, and the cave.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TouringCamotes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TouringCamotes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Touring the Camotes by Motorcycle</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/MagellanMonument.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/MagellanMonument-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Magellan Monument</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/BuhoRock.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/BuhoRock-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Overlook at Buho</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/LakeDanaoCamotes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/LakeDanaoCamotes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Lake Danao Tourist Center (Restaurants, Boats, Zipline)</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TimuboCave.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/TimuboCave-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Swimming Underground at Timubo Cave</center></strong>
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There is a decent store, open market, and restaurants in San Francisco, the town at the center of the "butterfly" that the two main Camotes Islands make.<br>
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We moved back to the Talong area on June 20, when the SW wind came up to 10-15 knots. With a little current along the island opposing the SW wind, it was very uncomfortable off Santiago.<br>
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A few days later we motored back to Port Carmen. It was time for my 2nd Sinovac shot. Plus we had a few things to take care of... the watermaker boost pump quit working, and we had fried one of our alternator controllers.<br>
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We spent 3 weeks in Carmen this time. Partly doing boat work, and partly enjoying socializing. One Sunday morning we went by dinghy with our friends on Dream Reach up to a Hotel/Restaurant that served a great Sunday breakfast. After a massive "English Breakfast" we lounged in their pool.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/Breakfast.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/Breakfast-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Breakfast at Huna Huna Resort</center></strong>
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We did at least one low tide Happy Hour on "Claudia's Island". This is a little "awash" rock outcropping next to the mooring area, and Claudia on s/v Tao has been piling rocks and planting mangroves to make it a little nicer for dog-walking and sunset Happy Hours. When the tides line up, it's big enough for cruisers to gather for a sunset happy hour. An old truck tire serves as the table.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/HHClaudiasIsland.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/HHClaudiasIsland-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Happy Hour on Claudia's Island</center></strong>
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On our 2nd visit to Camotes, we finally found what we thought was the perfect anchorage for SW winds, on the north side of Talong Island, at the eastern end. 10° 43.181' N / 124° 19.613' E is the waypoint for a large shelf of mixed grass and sand, and a few scattered coral heads, in about 30-35 ft. We got 3-4 boats in this area. It is pretty protected even if strong S-SW winds are blowing. And it is mostly out of the way of the noisy fishing bankas.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/FavoriteSpotCamotes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/FavoriteSpotCamotes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Favorite South Wind Anchorage at the Camotes</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/FavoriteSpotCamotes1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/FavoriteSpotCamotes1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Favorite South Wind Anchorage at the Camotes</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/SunsetCamotes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/SunsetCamotes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Another Nice Sunset</center></strong>
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Diving with Rock, he would come by and pick us up off the boat, and we'd dive the wall. Once or twice a week, we'd dinghy in to Rock's place for dinner. One night Rock prepared us a traditional Korean barbecue dinner.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/DinneratRocks.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/DinneratRocks-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Korean BBQ at Rock's Place</center></strong>
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We also had Rock out come out to Soggy Paws. The people we meet are always intrigued by our lifestyle.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RockonSoggy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/jun/RockonSoggy-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Rock Asking a Million Questions about Life Aboard</center></strong>
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We spent a great couple of months between short stops in Carmen and diving at Talong Island.<br>
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If you go to Camotes, be sure to check out <a href="https://unclerockdivingresort.com/" target="_blank">Uncle Rock's Dive Center</a>.Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-10258526245382007052021-06-15T13:21:00.169+09:002022-03-17T16:13:34.737+09:00Escape from Davao!Davao to Port Carmen, Cebu Island, Philippines<br>
May 11 - June 8, 2021<br>
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We finally completed our battery upgrade project in early May 2021. <a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/electricalsystems.htm" target="_blank"><b>See results here</b></a>.
Things around the Philippines were starting to loosen up a little. A couple of our friends had already escaped the marina and were doing OK cruising.<br>
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The Philippines were gearing up for the first rounds of Covid vaccinations. They had already completed most of the front line worker vaxes, and were getting organized for a big push with the rest of the population. The first step was to count how many doses they needed in each locale. We got registered with the folks on Samal Island. We were thankful that the Philippines weren't distinguishing between "visitors" and citizens. We were slated to be in the 3rd tier behind the front line workers and the "poor" old people. But we had no firm schedule for when vaccinations would actually come to Samal.<br>
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<a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/May/MovingOut.jpg">
<img border="0" src="http://svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/MovingOut-sm.jpg" width="300" height="400" align="right"></a><strong><center>Moving Out of the Condo<br>Where are we going to put it all?</center></strong><br>
After being confined to the marina for over a year, we were itching to get going.<br>
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We debated staying until we got vaccinated, but who knows when that would really happen. A couple of our friends had already escaped the marina and were doing OK cruising.<br>
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The twice-a-month marina shuttle van to Davao hadn't been running in over a year, so we got together with another boat and hired a tourist van from Samal to take us to S and R and G-Mall for a big provisioning trip. Plus I took the local marina shuttle into Babak nearly every day to buy as much as we could carry. So we stocked up for 6 months of cruising, and checked out of our cushy condo on May 7. That was our cats' first night aboard.<br>
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It took us a few more days to get organized to leave. We finally left the marina on May 11, 2021. Oh, what a relief it was! This had been the longest time ever, since my ex and I bought our first sailboat in the mid 80's, that I hadn't been out on a boat on the water. (Living aboard in an enclosed marina doesn't count!)<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/SailingAgain.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/SailingAgain-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Sailing Again!!</center></strong><br>
We didn't have any real concrete plans, other than to go up into the central Philippines and cruise parts of the Philippines we hadn't spent much time in. The central Philippines has a mostly enclosed area of islands known as the Visayas, which is a great cruising ground. There's no real open ocean sailing once we get up the Mindanao coast--we only had to keep an eye out for Typhoons.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/Helm.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/Helm-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Helm Station</center></strong><br>
We had already been up and down the east coast of Mindanao in 2018, so we motorsailed up the coast as fast as reasonably possible. As before, between morning calms, currents, and widely spaced anchorages (ie long day hops), there wasn't much sailing on this leg. As before, we day-hopped the entire way, due to the risks of nighttime unlit fishing boats, nets, and FADs.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/SunsetBucasGrande.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/SunsetBucasGrande-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Happy Hour on the Foredeck at Sunset in Bucas Grande</center></strong><br>
On May 23, we motored through the Hinatuan Passage at 9 knots! (with 3-4 knots of current behind us). You really have to time this small 5 mile stretch for a favorable tide. We were lucky that the tides were right as soon as we wanted to go through.<br>
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At the end of this passage, just north of the town of Surigao, was a new anchorage that our friends had weathered an almost-typhoon in. We wanted to check it out, and so spent the night in the enclosed area in Nonoc Island (09°49.73'N / 125° 35.61'E, 35 ft mud).<br><br>
It definitely helps to have a satellite image to get into the anchorage. It would be a good choice for a mild Typhoon, but I don't think I'd stay here by choice if a strong Typhoon were coming. The reefs would knock the seas down, but there's a huge sector of the bay open to the wind. With enough notice, I'd sail south to several hidey holes along the top of western Mindanao.<br>
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The next night, we made it all the way up to the SW tip of Leyte Island. We had stopped here and dived with Southern Leyte Divers in 2018. But this time, we merely stopped overnight and pushed on to Port Carmen, 2 more days travel NW. Dave had booked a spot on Zeke's (Pinoy Boatyard in Port Carmen) catamaran ramp, and we needed to be there before the high tide.<br>
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We finally pulled into Port Carmen on May 25, 2021. Two days later, we went up on the ramp for a few days. Dave wanted to change zincs and outer saildrive seals. You can only do bottom work at low tide while on this ramp, so we worked odd hours when the tide was low.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/ZekesDocks.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/ZekesDocks-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Boats Med-Moored at Zeke's Docks</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/Boats2Deep.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/Boats2Deep-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Boats are Stacked Two Deep in the Marina Due to Pandemic</center></strong><br>
Port Carmen is one of the places where the "budget" cruisers hang out. Zeke's Marina and Boatyard (aka Pinoy Boat Services) is chock-a-block with boats right now--a few occupied, but most stored and left by owners who flew out when the pandemic began. Zeke has them rafted 2 deep in some places. The Philippines is STILL not letting non-Filipino citizens in except in special circumstances, and "But my $100K boat is there, rotting!" isn't considered a special circumstance.<br>
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We heard around the bar at Zeke's that they were vaccinating older people in Danao, the nearby city. "Just show up in the morning with your passport and tell them you are living at Zeke's on your boat." That worked!<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/CovidVaxReg.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/CovidVaxReg-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Vaccination Registration Desk at Danao Health Center</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/CovidVax.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/CovidVax-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Briefing Before We Were Vaccinated</center></strong><br>
We got our first vaccinations on May 28. The only problem was, because I told them I was taking baby aspirin, they would not vaccinate me with Astra Zenica (what Dave got). They would only give me Sinovac. They told me I could stop taking aspirin and come back in a month, or get the Sinovac today. Something is better than nothing, so I accepted the Sinovac reluctantly. I did not have much faith in the Chinese vaccine.<br>
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I didn't feel any after-effects from my Sinovac jab, but Dave was feeling pretty poor for 24 hours after his Astra Zenica. Right during our haulout, too! He slept for about 24 hours and then felt good enough to go back to work.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/ZekesRamp.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/ZekesRamp-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Soggy Paws on the New "Cat Ramp" at Zekes</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/DaveSaildrives.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/DaveSaildrives-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dave Working on the Saildrives</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/RampMud.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/RampMud-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>In the Mud/Sand at Low Tide</center></strong><br>
Zeke CAN haul you completely out of the water and block you high and dry, but that's a fairly time-consuming and expensive proposition. And there was currently a boat out doing an extensive Copper Coat bottom job. I'm not sure there's room for two out of the water.<br>
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We finished our work on the ramp and launched on the high tide on May 31, and went out to a mooring in the "pond" outside Zeke's.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/MooringField.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/may/MooringField-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Carmen South Mooring Field--In the Rain</center></strong><br>
We couldn't leave Carmen yet though--we needed to renew our visas and do some re-stocking. A couple of days later we hopped a bus heading for Cebu out in front of the shipyard. Our friend Evan on Java had given us precise instructions for the best/easiest/cheapest way to get to the best/easiest Immigration office--one that will give you a 6 month extension without begging (vs the 2 months that is the norm these days in the Philippines).<br>
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There were COVID checkpoints on the road into Cebu, but most were either not manned these days, or just waved the bus on through. We wore our super-masks (KN95) on this trip as we knew not many Filipinos were vaxxed yet. We had all our paperwork ready to submit, so getting the visa extensions was quick and painless--it only takes money (about $30 pp per month). Afterward we checked out a couple of malls near the Immigration office. The grocery stores were open, but a lot of stores were still closed. We took a taxi to the bus station near another mall, and found the right bus to get back to the shipyard.<br>
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Another thing we did this first week in Carmen was organize a vet to come out to Zekes to handle all the pet needs for all the cruisers. Our little Charlie was ready for her 2nd round of shots. We ended up with 6-8 cats and dogs waiting around the picnic table at Zekes. The vet arrived late and was pretty disorganized, but the only other way to get to a vet was to get on a trike or a jeepney or bus with the cat. The other vet in Danao is hard to reach and hard to schedule. We later had a really bad experience with this vet when it came time to get Charlie spayed. So I wouldn't let her near your pet with a knife. I don't think she has any formal veterinary training.<br>
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Up Next: Cruising the Camotes Islands<br>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-47202427222406515312021-05-30T13:22:00.000+09:002022-03-17T13:18:32.734+09:00Cats on a Cat!When we left on our world cruise in May 2007, we left my cat Annabelle with my daughter. Though both Dave and I are cat people, and cats do well on cruising boats, the amount of "inland travel" we planned to do would make it difficult to keep a pet. Trying to find someone to cat-sit in a strange country while we were off the boat for 2 months at a time would be nearly impossible. We have held fast to this plan until 2019, when another cruiser asked us to cat-sit their cat for a few months while they were in NZ. This rekindled our affection for cats. But we were still sure we really didn't want to have a cat aboard.<br>
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There have always been boatyard cats at Oceanview Marina, where we spent all of 2020 and almost half of 2021. The strays seemed to have litter after litter--there were always cute little kittens hiding around the premises. But it was difficult to get close to them. In January 2021, we started putting out scraps for the two kittens hanging around the condo building. One little stray kitten captured our hearts by actually coming up to us and rubbing on our feet. After a couple of weeks of this, we finally succumbed and invited him/her in to the condo where we were staying (next to the marina). After a couple of days, we were hooked, and we decided to make this cat part of our family.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/PerkinsJan2021.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/PerkinsJan2021-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our New Kitten, First Night in Condo</center></strong><br>
Without consulting a vet, and seeing little knobby things on its back end, we assumed it was a boy.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/LooksLikeaBoy.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/LooksLikeaBoy-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Looks Like a Boy to Me!</center></strong><br>
Many people (and the internet) told us that 90% of all yellow tabby cats were male (it's a genetic thing). So we assumed he was a boy, and named him Perkins, after our old faithful engine on our previous boat "Mr Perkins".
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VetHouseCall.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VetHouseCall-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Local Vet Makes a House Call</center></strong><br>
A couple of weeks later, we finally arranged for the local vet on the island to come out to the marina and give Perkins his first set of shots, Dr. Glaiza Luna. Can you imagine Vets doing house calls in the USA??<br>
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Perkins didn't like having a stranger in the room, so he spent the vet's visit swaddled in a towel, except for a quick jab with the needle, and a yukky experience with the (oral) de-wormer. (This is why the vet didn't notice on the first visit that Perkins was a girl not a boy.) We set a date for when we would get Perkins fixed--amazingly the vet agreed she could do it there in our condo room when the time came.<br>
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Meanwhile, Perkins, having been a starving stray for the first 4-5 months of his life, ate and ate and ate. As a stray, he got our shrimp peels and chicken bones. As a member of the family he got hand-peeled shrimp and nibbles of chicken breast. Oh the life! Perkins started getting noticeably fat, and we commented several times about how we needed to cut down on the food he was getting.
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/FatCat.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/FatCat-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Too Fat Cat</center></strong><br>
In late January, we started telling everyone in the marina that we would be leaving a few days after Perkins was "fixed", in a few weeks. Boat preps went into high gear.<br>
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On the appointed date for castration, the vet came by, and gave Perkins a tranquilizer, and then started prepping for the operation. When she turned Perkins over, she laughed and laughed and laughed, and said "You've been pranked! This is not a boy, Perkins is a girl! And what's more, she's very pregnant!" OMG! The little bumps on his/her posterior turned out to be just tufts of hair, not male organs. And his/her "getting fat" was tiny little kittens growing in her belly. No wonder she was incessantly hungry!<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VeryPreggiePerkins.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VeryPreggiePerkins-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Very Pregnant Cat! (One Week Before Giving Birth)</center></strong><br>
So now what could we do? We can't leave the marina with a pregnant cat! So we settled in to wait for Perkins to give birth, in about 4 weeks, we hoped.<br>
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On Feb 25th, Perkins presented us with 4 squirmy wet blobs that turned out to be the cutest little kittens. Even though she was only a teenager herself (about 6 months old, as best we could tell), she knew exactly what to do to squirt those babies out and make sure their first hours of life were good ones. Of course, Dave and I were there watching and were ready to help (but no help needed, thankfully).<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/10HoursOld.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/10HoursOld-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>10 Hours Old</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/3DaysOld.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/3DaysOld-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>3 Days Old</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/10DaysOld.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/10DaysOld-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>10 Days Old</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/10DaysOld2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/10DaysOld2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>10 Days Old</center></strong><br>
After a few days, we named them all after some of our favorite people. Since everyone told us that 90% of the orange tabbies turn out to be males, and they were too young to tell definitively, we gave them all boys names... Gordo (after my Dad), Henry (after Dave's ex Father in Law), Andrew (after Prince Andrew, who was in the news at the time), and Charlie (after my ex-husband's childhood nickname...Charlie was the smart scrappy one.) Later, thanks to a vet friend in the US, we found out they were 2 males and 2 females. So Gordo became Gordita and Charlie the boy became Charlie the girl.
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/GettingRambunctious.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/GettingRambunctious-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>OMG, They're Climbing Out!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/2Cats.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/2Cats-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Oh My! What Big Ears You Have!</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/6Weeks.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/6Weeks-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>6 Weeks Old</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/4CatsinaBox.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/4CatsinaBox-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>4 Cats in a Box</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/InTheBox.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/InTheBox-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Doing Their Business in the Box!</center></strong><br>
We spent the next 2 months enjoying watching the kittens grow into their legs and their ears. What fun having 4 kittens playing hide and seek around our one-room condo (including at 4am). How exciting the first time one of them actually did their "business" in the sand box. We had to pin the drapes up in the condo to keep them from climbing up the drapes. We used a big cardboard box to keep them in, until they learned how to climb up and jump out. We had to switch to using real sand in the sand box for awhile, instead of clumping litter, because oddly, the kittens liked to eat the clay in the clumping litter.<br>
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Now, what to do with 4 kittens?? We eventually decided to keep one kitten, and the chosen one was Charlie--one of the smallest but smartest and most adventurous. A friend wanted a male cat, so Henry went to him. And the other two were placed by the vet to two sisters. By mid May, we were down to only Perkins and Charlie.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/2CatstoVet.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/2CatstoVet-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Kittens Going to Their New Homes</center></strong><br>
Finally the day came to get Perkins fixed. Neutering a female cat is more difficult than a male cat, so the vet insisted we bring Perkins in to her office for the procedure. A cruiser friend with a car gave us a lift, so we didn't have to take her on a trike! The operation was over in about 15 minutes, and the vet handed Perkins back and said "Keep her quiet for today."<br>
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When we got back to the condo, little Charlie couldn't understand why mommy wouldn't play with her. So we had to lock Charlie out on the balcony to let Perkins sleep and recover from her surgery. As I was closing the sliding door, Charlie dashed back in, and I closed the door on her head...hard. OMG I thought I killed our sweet kitten! It knocked her back and she staggered around for a minute. She stayed woozy for the day. So both momma and kitten slept all day. The next morning, both were right as rain, and chasing each other around the condo. Thank God.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/PerkinsCharlieAtSea.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/PerkinsCharlieAtSea-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Finally We Break Away from the Marina</center></strong><br>
So we finally set out from the marina on May 11, with two cats aboard. The cats have adapted well. When we are underway, they voluntarily stay below. As soon as we turn the engine on, they curl up in their underway spots. But at anchor they have the run of the deck.
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatsLounging.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatsLounging-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>One of their "On Passage" Hangouts</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatsAtSea.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatsAtSea-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Hanging Out on the Hard Top During Happy Hour</center></strong><br>
Their favorite Happy Hour pasttime is chasing each other up and down the boom.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatOnBoom.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatOnBoom-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Playing On the Boom</center></strong><br>
We've only lost one overboard so far--one very still night in a crowded mooring field in Port Carmen, Charlie fell or jumped in, and ended up swimming to a neighboring boat and climbing up on their cat rope, as we did not have one hanging over the side yet. Our neighbors noticed a strange cat in their cockpit at 3am, and brought her back to us. We've got climbers on the stern now, and are planning a cat swimming lesson soon.<br>
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Sometimes they like to play the "See if you can find me Game!"
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatOverhead.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CatOverhead-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>See If You Can Find Me!</center></strong><br>
One of the hard things about having pets on a cruising boat is finding good veterinary care in new countries. The vet on Samal Island was great. However, we had a vet in Danao, Cebu spay Charlie, and it was a disaster. After 2 hours on her table, the vet announced she could not find Charlie's uterus. Then she did a terrible job of sewing her back up. A week later we had to rush to a vet 60 miles away on another island because Charlie was having trouble urinating. 1 month and 2 surgeries later, she is finally spayed and nearly 100% healed. We found a great vet in Catbalogan, Samar, experienced and caring. Because it was a long trike ride to town, they made several house calls.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VetVisitOntheBeach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/VetVisitOntheBeach-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Husband and Wife Team at Cinco Family Clinic<br>(Pets Unlimited)<br>Treating Charlie on the Beach</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CharlieIsOK.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2021/feb/CharlieIsOK-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Cute Little Charlie is Finally Recovered</center></strong><br>
We're not sure what we're going to do next time we want to leave the boat for a couple of months--but we'll figure something out!Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-90282058651453078112021-03-30T11:32:00.000+09:002022-03-17T13:10:38.914+09:002020 - The Year of COVID<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/CovidVirus.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" />
June 28, 2021, from the Philippines<div><br /></div><div>I haven't quite finished updating our adventures in 2019--I did a few long posts while we were in Lockdown in 2020, but waiting for catchup obviously isn't working, so I thought I'd at least let everyone know that we DID survive (at least so far) Covid-19 in the Philippines.<br>
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To recap our situation in early 2020... With the boat at Holiday Oceanview Marina, Samal Island (near Davao, Mindanao, Philippines) we had stayed in Florida until the end of January 2020.<br>
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<b>December and January in Florida</b><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/MYCHangoverRegatta.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/MYCHangoverRegatta-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>2020 Started Out Right<br>With a Regatta at Melbourne Yacht Club</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/PicknGrinn.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/PicknGrinn-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>And Pick'n and Grin'n with some of our favorite folks at Melbourne Yacht Club</center></strong>
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We enjoyed visiting with lots of people all over Florida, including Dave's cousin Bryan, kayaking with some of Dave's Naval Academy buddies, sailing with friends Don and Gwen (who also own a St. Francis 44), and visiting with former Keys friends Dave and Jo-Ann. Plus Dave spent a bunch of time talking about World War II issues with buddy Justin Taylan of PacificWrecks.com. Justin also helped us move a bedroom full of stuff into a storage unit.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/BoxesandBoxes.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/BoxesandBoxes-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>So Much "Stuff"!</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/MovingVan.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/MovingVan-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The Last Trip with the Van</center></strong>
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By late January we were starting see the news from China that looked very bad. Contemplating our flight via LAX and Manila, on about Jan 28, I ordered a 100-pack of surgical masks from Amazon to be delivered to Dave's son in San Diego, which was on our route back to the Philippines. Prescient!</br></br>
<a href="https://amzn.to/2Syu5fy"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/jan/CovidMask.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 300px;" /></a><strong><center>Purchased: 100 Count Surgical Masks, Jan 2020</center></strong><br>
We were scheduled to fly LAX to Manila, leaving LAX Feb 4 and arriving in the Philippines on Feb 6, and I was scared that we might have problems with this flight, as China is so close to the Philippines. All went well on the flight, but we kept masks on when in enclosed spaces. We flew straight through, LAX to Manila to Davao, with only a 4 hr layover in Manila--no problems. All of our (very heavy x4) luggage arrived with us. We were grateful that a friend with a pickup agreed to meet us at the airport and transport us and luggage across on the ferry to the island of Samal. As always, we were very happy to get back on board.<br><br>
Our plans were to leave Samal Island "at the end of February" for Indonesia, and then work our way west to Singapore and the Malay peninsula during 2020. So we had a really busy month planned to get ready to go. Besides our 4 big suitcases full of stuff, we had also shipped 3 big boxes via sea freight, with lots of parts and materials for "projects", including a complete set of standing rigging wire and connectors, a mainsheet, and too many other things to list.<br><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/Haulout2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/Haulout2-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Approaching the Haulout Ramp</center></strong>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/Haulout.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/Haulout-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Blocked and Ready for Work</center></strong><br>
Well, we didn't make our "end of February" date--our 3 boxes didn't arrive with the new rigging wire until mid-March. On March 8, we hauled out for a couple of weeks to do bottom paint and some work on the saildrives. Since they were going to leave us on the haulout ramp, we got a short term condo booked at the resort next door, for March 8-22. We didn't check out of that condo until May 10, 2021!<br><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/ViewfromCondo.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/ViewfromCondo-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The Lovely View from our Condo</center></strong><br>
Other than the haulout and the re-rigging, we were ready to leave. We were fully fueled and stocked to the gills for 6 months in Indonesia. We just needed to complete the haulout, a couple of days of work to replace the rigging wire, and we were ready for Indonesia. God laughed at our man-made plans.<br><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/CovidLockdownSign.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/CovidLockdownSign-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The First Inkling That Our 2020 Plans would drastically change</center></strong><br>
While we were hauled out, on March 18, 2020, COVID measures started happening on Samal Island. This included restriction of movement, requirements for quarantine passes, and very limited trips to even the local market on the island, and severe restrictions on going in to the big city of Davao.<br><br>
By the end of March, almost all SE Asia countries were "locked down" (not admitting new visitors). By the time we finished our haulout and our our re-rigging, it became obvious that continuing with our plan to move on to Indonesia was unwise and maybe impossible. There were already several cases in our cruising Facebook groups of cruisers that left one place while their next stop was "open" only to find out that country, and the country they left, both closed while they were enroute. We didn't want to get stuck somewhere--we had it pretty good in our little Oceanview Marina on Samal Island.<br><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/711Waiting.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/711Waiting-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Waiting at the 7-11 for Shuttle Pickup</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/CovidCheckpoint.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/CovidCheckpoint-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Checkpoints around Samal to Keep Unneccesary Travel down</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/LiquorBan.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/LiquorBan-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Sale of Liquor was Banned on Samal Island for most of 2020!</center></strong><br>
The alcohol ban was the worst. We were fortunate that the new 7-11 store on Samal still permitted us to buy wine. We also hired some fishermen to go to a nearby town that wasn't under liquor lockdown and buy all the rum they could find. And we made rice wine in the pantry.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/SocialDistancing.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/SocialDistancing-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Signs at the Checkout Counter at the Grocery Store</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/MoneyLaundering.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/MoneyLaundering-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Washing Money in Alcohol after Shopping<br>(I only did this once!)</center></strong><br>
The Filipinos in our small town don't have enough money to "stock up" on anything, so we never had a run on toilet paper. We were in good shape ourselves, because we were stocked for 6 months in Indonesia, so we never panicked about buying necessities.<br>
<br>
So, with the lockdown, we decided to stick with the comfort of the condo (better A/C, Satellite TV, electric cooking, and more space). Dave could work on "projects" on the boat without having to work around me, and I could do sewing projects in the condo with a little more room to lay things out. We also felt it was safer (and nicer) for us to have a private bathroom rather than using the marina facilities. We were fortunate that our landlord was stuck in Davao and very happy to have her condo rented, even when the resort was completely closed for several months.<br><br>
We did LOTS of useful work on the boat during 2020. I worked on a number of sewing projects, and Dave worked on all the boat mechanical, electrical, refrigeration, and interior stuff. With the marina closed to new guests (even those already within the Philippines), no new boats were coming in, so the marina workers were starting to run out of work to do. We all thought up new projects just to keep them working. One boat who had planned to go to Thailand for a major refit ended up staying and doing their refit at the marina, keeping a lot of the guys busy all year.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/DinghyChapsFinished.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/DinghyChapsFinished-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Our New Dinghy Chaps</center></strong><br>
Here are the things I accomplished in 2020:<br>
- New Dinghy "chaps"<br>
- New back curtain for shade across the back of the cockpit<br>
- New side shades for the cockpit<br>
- New windshield for the cockpit<br>
- New screens for hatches<br>
- New front and side window shades<br>
- Learned how to program Arduino's (small micro computers) and Raspberry Pi's<br>
- Tons of research and buying stuff online to support Dave's projects<br>
- Bought and configured 2 new laptops<br><br>
Dave's list is much much longer<br>
- Moved engine exhausts to about 12" above the waterline<br>
- Serviced both engine injection pumps and all injectors<br>
- Upgraded the Freezer compressor from a BD-35 air cooled to a BD-50 Frigoboat keel cooled system<br>
- Completely refurbished the freezer compartment and gasketing<br>
- Anchor and chain re-galvanized<br>
- Upgraded our anchor swivel to the new Mantus swivel<br>
- All rigging wire, turnbuckles and end fittings replaced<br>
- Added a bunch (50 shelves) of new shelving in various areas of the boat for more stuff<br>
- Made burglar bars for the front inboard hatches<br>
- Twice pulled and replaced seals and orings on the saildrives (chasing leaks)<br>
- Liferaft serviced and repacked<br>
- Installed 2 new bilge pumps<br>
- Replaced our aging 600 Ah of Gel batteries with 540 Ah LiFePO4 (lithium) batteries<br>
- Did some major rewiring and labeling of electrical system<br>
<br>
Early on, to keep ourselves occupied, we had "learning night" in the marina clubhouse. Dave and I each gave several presentations on places we had cruised, and technical subjects. (see our <a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/presentations.htm" target="_blank">Presentations</a> page on the website--they are all there).<br>
<br>
<b>The Battery Project</b><br>
When it became obvious in late May that things weren't going to get better for quite awhile, we started thinking it was a good time to upgrade our house battery bank to Lithium. The biggest problem in the Philippines is shipping stuff in--if you don't do it carefully, your "stuff" can get stuck in Customs and subject to 35-50% duty and day-by-day Customs holding charges. We got pretty good at shipping stuff in from the USA, but we wanted to buy these batteries direct in China, and we didn't know of a shipping mechanism that would work.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/BatteriesoutofBox.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/BatteriesoutofBox-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Our LiFePO4 Cells Have Finally Arrived!</center></strong><br>
Another friend in the marina found a way, via a friend in Hong Kong. So together we bought 24 3.3-volt 272 Ah LifePO4 cells from a reputable source in China. It took 2 1/2 months for the batteries to reach us from China. Then the fun started. It was a long long learning process for us--one that didn't complete until April 2021.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/4Cells.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/4Cells-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>4 of our 8 Cells (note Bar Codes, etc)</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/BatteryLab.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/BatteryLab-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The Battery Lab Where We Did Our Capacity Testing</center></strong><br>
It IS possible to just slam together a LifePO4 system without a lot of thought and effort, and it will likely work, but Dave is obsessed with "doing it right", both for safety reasons and longevity of the batteries. So he and I both spent hours reading (mostly online) and watching YouTube videos to understand why upgrading to LifePO4 batteries can be an involved process. <br>
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To see the results, check out our Electrical page on the website at <a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/electricalsystems.htm" target="_blank">http://svsoggypaws.com/electricalsystems.htm</a>)<br>
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Originally we thought we would build a custom Battery Management System (BMS), using Arduino boards and custom programming, based on a project posted by someone else on Instructables.com. Our friend in the battery project is an Electrical Engineer, and he designed a custom circuit board with an Analog Devices BMS chip on it. He did the hardware design and I was in charge of adapting the Arduino programming to the new chip, adding in a NMEA2000 communications capability, and programming the additional protection circuit logic.<br>
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/Arduino1.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/Arduino1-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Me, Learning How to Program Arduionos<br>(I had a lot of fun doing this!)</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/Arduino2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/Arduino2-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Two Arduinos Communicating via CanBus<br>(and eventually NMEA2000)</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/Arduino3.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/Arduino3-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>A Simple Temperature Monitor, My First Project</center></strong><br>
We thought this would be a cinch project since we already had a hardware design and prototype software for a working system. But throw in a newer BMS chip, and several new protection circuits, board fabrication and sourcing parts from the Philippines, and things got kind of out of control, timewise. I got the prototype software working with a breadboard version of the BMS board, but the final "production" BMS boards were still not quite 100% by the time we left the marina in May 2021.<br>
<br>
When it became obvious in about August that our custom BMS wasn't going to be ready for prime time according to our schedule, we bought a commercially available BMS (Electrodacus SBMS0), which took 2 months to make it to the Philippines, and another several months to get wired up appropriately with protection circuits, etc. But at least I wasn't responsible if there was a glitch in the software!<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/CompressionBox.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/CompressionBox-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The Custom Compression Box Dave Built</center></strong><br>
Even now, after 6 weeks of actively cruising with the new battery bank, we are still learning. But we are glad we made the switch--adding more capacity at far less weight (300 lbs less) than our previous gel bank.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/BatteryBox.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/aug/BatteryBox-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The Finished Enclosed Battery Box</center></strong><br>
See more details here: <b><a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/electricalsystems.htm" target="_blank">http://svsoggypaws.com/electricalsystems.htm</a></b><br><br>
<b>Staying Fit</b><br>
We were fortunate to be locked down in the marina with another boat who were both Black Belts in karate. Mike and Liliane held some kind of workout session in the marina clubhouse 6 days a week--3 days a week for karate, plus 2 days of Jazzercisey strength and core exercise, and one day a week we took a long walk. After over a year of karate we 3 students ended up as Blue Belts. We normally did our workouts in the marina clubhouse, but occasionally we would vary the venue a little just for fun.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/KarateOnTheBeach.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/KarateOnTheBeach-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Working out in a Gorgeous Setting</center></strong><br>
We also had the resort pool completely to ourselves for months, as the resorts were closed due to lockdowns.<br>
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Dave couldn't be bothered to get up early enough for the morning workouts. He liked to do his workouts in the evening just before sunset... a half hour walk up and down the hill behind the marina, working out indoors in front of the TV, or an evening pool swim a couple times a week.<br><br>
I ended up the lockdown period 10 lbs lighter and a lot stronger than I would have otherwise.<br>
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<b>Social Life</b><br>
The traditional very strong marina social life kind of fell apart during 2020. Sundays at Bahay Kubo, Wednesday night pizza, and Friday evening potluck, all eventually went by the wayside due to lockdowns, social distancing, and low numbers in the marina. Most Sundays, participation at Bahay Kubo was only 4 stalwart foodies (winos), as the restaurant was not officially open for most of the year due to COVID restrictions.<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/BahayKubo.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/mar/BahayKubo-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Looking Forward to Bahay Kubo on Sundays Kept Us Sane</center></strong><br>
For various reasons, we could never get more than 2-3 boats to participate in any "social event" that we dreamed up, including a BYO dinner poolside at the resort (when the resort was closed). Even when we managed to restart "pizza night" by having pizza delivered, only a few people stuck around to socialize on the balcony after the pizzas were delivered. I sure missed the pre-pandemic social life!<br>
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We were really grateful when Wind Hog held a very nice Christmas Party on their boat, and invited everyone in the marina. We all brought masks, but after the first round of drinks, they went into our pockets (we were all outside on deck and in the cockpit). Wonder why the mayor initiated the Liquor Ban that we hated so much?
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/dec/WindHog.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/dec/WindHog-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>The Wind Hog Christmas Party</center></strong><br>
<b>US News and the 2020 Election</b><br>
When not working on the boat, we enjoyed/suffered through catching up with US News by watching CNN on the TV, and NBC Nightly News on the computer. The spectacle of Trumpism flourishing in our country left us speechless at times, and often made us embarrased for our country.
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/TrumpTweeties.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /><strong><center>Our President Making Official Announcements</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/Trump-Corona-Golf.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/Trump-Corona-Golf-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>And Leading Us Through This Crisis</center></strong><br>
<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/TrumpDuctTape.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /><strong><center></center></strong><br>
We made sure our status as absentee voters in Florida was solid, and faxed in our absentee ballots during the early voting season. And we verified that our votes were received and counted. We are hoping that "voting reforms" will not disenfranchise us in the next election.<br>
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<img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/IVoted.jpg" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /><strong><center></center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/VoteCounted.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2020/nov/VoteCounted-sm.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><strong><center>Online Check to Make Sure our Absentee Vote<br>was Received and Counted</center></strong><br>
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Towards the end of 2020, Indonesia appeared to be opening up somewhat, and we hoped to be able to enact our 2020 plans in 2021. However, uncertainty over when we would actually complete our battery project caused us to miss that window. Indonesia closed the special cruising permit again in early January 2021.<br>
</div>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-20896284268138898882019-11-30T07:39:00.002+09:002019-11-30T07:39:32.967+09:00Back in the PhilippinesOver the last couple of months, we made our way from Papua New Guinea, through NE Indonesia, and back to our marina in Davao, Mindanao, Philippines. Our total mileage for the year is a little over 7,000 nautical miles. It was a long and busy trip.<br />
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We've just spent 2 weeks doing maintenance and getting ready to leave the boat for a couple of months. We fly out Monday and will be back in late January/early February to get the boat ready for another foray into Indonesia.<br />
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I do plan to try to fill in the highlights of our trip down to the Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea, so keep checking up on us here!Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-69656370006125960472019-07-17T12:30:00.000+09:002019-11-30T07:25:05.870+09:00Exploring Marovo LagoonExploring Marovo Lagoon<br />
April 22-May 7, June 11-12, July 3-16<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MarovoLagoonTracks.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MarovoLagoonTracks-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Tracks (Red Lines) Through Marovo Lagoon</strong><br />
Note lack of detail on chart!</center><a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MarovoTracksN.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MarovoTracksN-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Tracks (Red Lines) in the N side of Marovo</strong><br />
Note all the reefy areas! (Click on picture to expand)</center><br />
We had been hearing about Marovo Lagoon ever since we had a "Tell us about the Solomon Islands" session with cruising friends in Palau in 2014. We were finally there, and in 3 visits during April, May, June, and July, we thoroughly explored the entire lagoon area.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/FollowingIndigo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/FollowingIndigo-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Following Indigo on our First Foray into Marovo Lagoon</center></strong><br />
On our visit April 22 to May 8, we were on a mission to get further south and east before the SE Trades started increasing--supposedly this was around May 15. So we didn't do as much exploring as we'd have liked to, but we did cover the highlights.<br />
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Our first stop was Matikuri, where we'd had a number of reports of the Matikuri Lodge and it's welcome from other cruisers. Sadly, the driving force behind Matikuri Lodge had passed away a few years earlier, and the rest of the family fumbled the ball. A few bad reports on Trip Advisor from disappointed tourists, plus new logging activity in the area, and it was barely operating. They did have 2 guests while we were there, and we managed to get them to make us dinner one night. And we hired them to take the 7 of us to snorkle the small boat tunnel to the WNW of Matikuri Lodge.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MatikuriDrone.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MatikuriDrone-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Anchorage at Matikuri</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/IndigoSunsetMatikuri.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/IndigoSunsetMatikuri-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And a Gorgeous Sunset</center></strong><br />
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We never stopped at Matikuri again, as we found the anchorage pretty buggy (small black flies, not mozzies).<br />
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We did a day stop at Seghe, the main town (with an airport). Liz wanted to mail a letter to her mum, so we set about finding the post office. It turns out that there is not one, but we were directed to a small store at the SDA end of the village. The proprieter of that store handled the mail--either putting it on the several-times-a-week Solomon Airlines flight, or on the twice a week freight/ferry. He had no stamps but assured Liz that her letter would get stamped and mailed when it reached Honiara.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/SegheWaterfront.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/SegheWaterfront-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Non-Descript Town of Seghe</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/SegheAirport.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/SegheAirport-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Seghe Airport (A Grass Strip)</center></strong><br />
We were surprised to find pretty good cell coverage in Marovo. A few places had only a glimmer of a signal, but most places, if we got our phone up high, we had enough signal so that we could do light internet, using our phone as a hotspot. The only challenge was keeping credit on the phone. For some reason, the Solomons Islands are excluded from the countries that our online topup site would work with (Ding.com and associated Ding app). Ding has worked in Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Philippines, Indonesia, and Papua New Guinea, but it doesn't work in the Solomons. That meant we had to find someone who could sell us top-up. Sometimes we had to give money to someone with our phone number written on a piece of paper, and they would hike to the next village and purchase credit for us from a tiny store that had both My Telekom credit, and signal.<br />
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And if you weren't careful and let your data package run out or expire, it would run through all your credit and you were out of business. This happened to me twice before I got smart and kept the credit on Dave's phone (he didn't do data), and only transferred it to my phone when I was ready to buy a data package.<br />
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So we bought some top-up from a store in Seghe, also gasoline, and a few veggies. The first time through Seghe, there was a nice but very small veggie market on the south side of the island, near the store where we bought a few things and some dinghy gas. The next time, when I really needed veggies (Saturday morning when my daughter was flying in for a week in Marovo), the market was not operating! Apparently the big market is Friday, and Saturday is the day off.<br />
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We stopped for a day at legendary Uepi Dive Resort on the north side of Marovo Lagoon. (Note: Uepi is pronounced several ways by people in Marovo... some say Yoo-pee, some say Wee-pee, and some say Yoo-ee-pee, we're not sure which is correct!)<br />
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This is a beautiful exclusive resort where people pay ~$300 per night for a room and $100 per dive. We didn't expect to go diving, but did hope to go in for dinner. But we didn't have a great experience there. First, as we were trying to anchor in a sand spot (avoiding the coral patches carefully), a boat came out and told us we couldn't anchor there because we were on a heavily traveled route and boats traveled through there at night. (false, it turned out). Dave asked where we should anchor, and the boat led us to a deeper corally spot, and closer to the resort! It was stupid, seemed like just harassment.<br />
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But it was Dave's birthday, so we really wanted to go in for dinner. We cleaned up and put on our best yachtie dress-up clothes and took the dinghy in to look around. The workers at the dock were friendly enough, but when we went in and tried to make a reservation for dinner, we were told they couldn't accommodate us. What about the next night? Nope. We never did get to meet/talk to the owner/manager--just an underling who couldn't make a decision on her own. The owner/manager was "unavailable". Probably some yachtie took advantage of the situation some time in the past, and screwed it up for the rest of us... That's why we (and Seven Seas Cruising Association) emphasize the need for leaving a "clean wake". One bad deed by one yachtie can screw it up for all yachties for years to come.<br />
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We did enjoy the weekly carver's display at Uepi. The resort permits all the local carvers to come one day a week to exhibit their carvings. They are strictly regulated by the resort as to negotiating tactics, etc, so as not to bother the guests. This is a great place to see all the best carvings in one spot. But because it is held at an upscale resort, the prices that the carvers are asking tend to be fairly high.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiBowl.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiBowl-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>An Exquisite Bowl with Shell Inlay</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiCanoe.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiCanoe-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Several Items Including an Ebony War Canoe</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiHead.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiHead-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Muzu Muzu Carved out of Ebony</center></strong><br />
Nearly every carver had Muzu Muzu's for sale. These were traditionally mounted on the bow of the war canoe, and when the canoe was going out to collect heads, the man had a skull in his hands (this one has a bird, which signifies peace).<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiWall.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/UepiWall-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Wall Hanging of the "Spirit of the Solomons" Style</center></strong><br />
Many carvers also had "Spirit of the Solomons" carvings, depicting the many facets of Solomon Islands life. Some were carved as wall hangings and some as stand-up statues.<br />
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From Uepi, we took a break from carvers and canoes and anchored off a beach near Lumalihe Pass. We took the dinghies out for a snorkel on the outer wall. The water was very calm and clear. I would have like to stay another day and make a dive there, but Dave and our buddies wanted to press on to the next carver village.<br />
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The next stop after Lumalihe was looking for the world renowned carver called "John Wayne" in Telina Village. We're pretty sure that that's not his real name, but it is the name that all the cruisers passing through over the years have referred to him as. Supposedly he is/was the best carver in Marovo. But we were a little disappointed in what he showed us. Apparently most of his carvings are already consigned and he didn't have a lot on hand.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/TelinaRockyDave.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/TelinaRockyDave-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dave Looking at Rocky's Artifacts</center></strong><br />
We did really enjoy meeting his nephew, Rocky, who lives on the island just offshore of Telina. Rocky is a very talented and imaginative carver. He is not happy to just keep making the same tourist pieces, but is more of an artist exploring his art. He showed us the book he was studying, with pictures and sketches and mythology from early explorers in the Solomons.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/OceanicMythologyBook.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/OceanicMythologyBook.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Rocky's Oceanic Mythology Book</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/TelinaRocky1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/TelinaRocky1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Collection of Some of Rocky's Carvings</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/TelinaRocky2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/TelinaRocky2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>One of Rocky's "Spirit of the Solomons" Carvings</center></strong><br />
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The next day we moved 2 miles east to Cheke Village. A couple of the Cheke carvers had come out to visit us in their canoes when we were anchored at Lumalihe Pass, and we had put them off then by saying "We'll come visit your village later." "Later" came quickly and as soon as we dropped our anchor, visitors came by in their canoes.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeDrone2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeDrone2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Drone Shot of our Fleet at Cheke Village</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeDrone1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeDrone1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Close Picture of the Point at Cheke Village</center></strong><br />
They are quiet and respectful but very canny in their dealings with visiting yachts. We had trouble saying "no" even when we had acquired way too many carvings or didn't need any more veggies. But it is exhausting having visitors stop by.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeVeggies.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeVeggies-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Veggies for Sale!</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeMoreCarvings.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeMoreCarvings-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>More Carvings!</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeLollyHunters.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeLollyHunters-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We Call These Kids "Lolly Hunters"</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeLollyHunters2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeLollyHunters2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Often they will pilfer a few fruits or veggies from their family garden, and come out seeking "lollies"</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeFish.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/ChekeFish-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>One we didn't buy, that we wish we had</center></strong><br />
All of the villages are on the "mainland" island of Vangunu Island. There are no villages on the outer rim, though all the reefs and islands are owned by someone. The villages stay on the mainland due to a lack of water on the outer islands. But men and families in dugout canoes travel all over the lagoon under paddle power. There are a few motor boats--each village owns at least one--to go the long distance into the main town of Seghe.<br />
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So, when we wanted to take a break from all the visitors, we headed back out to the outer rim. This time we anchored on the NE side in a place called Pore Pore. We didn't have any other cruiser's tracks going in, but we did have good satellite pictures. We found a gap in the reef that was 8-10 feet going in over the reef, and then it deepens out to 20-25 ft nice sand, off a pretty beach. AND NO VILLAGE! We stayed a day there the first time and came back twice more later for several days at a time.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/PorePoreBeach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/PorePoreBeach-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Pore Pore Anchorage</center></strong><br />
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The final stop on our first pass through Marovo Lagoon was a village called Mbili. (pronounced Billy with a short mm at the beginning). The actual village is on an island just outside the main lagoon rim. But the anchorage is inside the pass, next to a small dive operation called Solomon Dive Adventures. Lisa has been running a dive operation in Marovo for a bunch of years, but has moved locations several times. She is current located on a Tambapeava Island, just inside Mbili Pass.<br />
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The first guy out to see us in a canoe was Paul, and he offered to arrange a "showing" of carvings that afternoon, so all the villagers could put out there wares at once, and we wouldn't be inundated by canoes for the next 2 days.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/Mbili1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/Mbili1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Mbili Carving Show</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/Mbili2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/Mbili2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/Mbili3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/Mbili3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
We stayed nearly a week in Mbili. It was a nice anchorage. Lisa was friendly, and even shared one of her favorite lagoon dive spots with us.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliLisasDeck.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliLisasDeck-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Lisa's Deck</center></strong><br />
The dive is called "Pipes" it the terrain is so-so, but the "critters" were pretty cool. We encountered 2 big, friendly octopi, and a bunch of other smaller critters.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesOctopus.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesOctopus-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Very Curious Octopus</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesOctopus2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesOctopus2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesFish.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesFish-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Large School of Squirrelfish</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesHermit.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliPipesHermit-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Great Shot of a Hermit Crab</center></strong><br />
Lisa also arranged for us to take a trip up a "river" to see a family of canoe makers. The primary canoe maker moved out into an uninhabited area to be close to where the trees grow. He moved his extended family with him, and there is now a small school and several families with a lot of cute kids.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiverTrip.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiverTrip-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Gang enroute to the Canoe Carver's Abode</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver1Marker.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver1Marker-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Channel Marker for the River Entrance</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver2Arrival.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver2Arrival-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>At the Canoe Maker's Village</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver3KidsPic.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver3KidsPic-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Everyone Wants Their Picture Taken</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver4Kids2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver4Kids2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Checking out their Pictures on the Smartphone</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver5Canoes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver5Canoes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Canoe in the Making</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver6CanoeShaping.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver6CanoeShaping-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Shaping the Canoe</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver7CanoeShaping.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver7CanoeShaping-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>More Shaping</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver8Paddles.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MbiliRiver8Paddles-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>And We Buy a Souvenir</center></strong><br />
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There are two weekly ferries that transit Marovo Lagoon in both directions, they leave from Honiara and go to Gizo, making several stops in the Lagoon, including a stop near Mbili, and also at Seghe. They turn around in Gizo and head right back to Honiara. It would be a cool way to see a good cross section of the Solomon Islands.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MarovoFerry.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jul/MarovoFerry-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>One of the Weekly Honiara to Gizo Ferries</center></strong><br />
We came back to Marovo Lagoon when daughter Nicki visited. More on their visit in another post.Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-53223878249429594782019-06-25T09:53:00.000+09:002019-09-07T06:47:02.786+09:00Repairing Your Boat in Exotic Places (Solomon Islands Version)<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/SoggyPawsOut.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/SoggyPawsOut-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
We are currently in the Solomon Islands. The Solomons are a tiny island country of approximately 900 islands, located off the east coast of Australia. They have had an interesting and varied history, but they are most famous these days for being the site of some major World War II battles (Guadalcanal being the most famous). They achieved independence from Britain in 1976, but still consider Queen Elizabeth II their queen (according to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solomon_Islands">Wikipedia article</a>).<br />
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Like many other developing countries, a lot of the working infrastructure is created and maintained by foreigners. In the Solomons, it is mainly Australians who support the first-world infrastructure that can be found here.<br />
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After an encounter with a log in February on our way to PNG (account <a href="http://svsoggypaws.blogspot.com/2019/02/passage-maggawandi-to-ninigos_6.html">here</a> and emergency repairs <a href="http://svsoggypaws.blogspot.com/2019/03/rudder-repair-in-kavieng-png.html">here</a>), and another encounter with a reef also in PNG, we needed to do a little repair work on our bottom. It wasn't urgent--we weren't sinking, but we had a few weeks with no commitments, so Dave decided it might be a good time to get hauled out. It was also about time to change the oil in the saildrives.<br />
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We discovered that there are actually 3 haulout facilities in the Solomons (that we know of). We contacted all 3 shipyards and got verbal quotes to haul our 44 foot (14m) catamaran, and have her out for 5 days while we did the repairs we need. The two shipyards in/near Tulagi (Sesape and Avi Avi) are commercial yards. Tulagi is an island that a ~one hour (wet) outboard ride to Honiara, so getting supplies and repair materials is simpler. But neither location is very nice. Tulagi has a bad reputation for theft and boardings (though once up in the shipyard, there are probably guards/dogs).<br />
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The 3rd option, Liapari, is semi-commercial, but also a cruiser hangout. Noel and his wife Rosie have a nice area with a pavilion for cruiser happy hours and potlucks. With some forward planning, Noel can get stuff shipped in from Australia, or tell you where (if) you can find it in Gizo or Honiara. They do have some basic cabins on the property, so you can live aboard or in one of their cabins (at extra cost, of course). Noel runs a shuttle to Gizo at least once a week.<br />
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Liapari has 2 slipways, one set up for monohulls and a new one that Noel has recently commissioned for wider/bigger vessels up to 200 tons. The carriage on the big haulout is 24 feet wide, but there is a frame that can sit on the carriage and go under the bridge deck of a catamaran, to haul cats wider than 24 feet. Power is available (240v) and water is nearby, out of a rain-fed tank (we used buckets as we didn’t need much, but you could rig some kind of a hose if necessary).<br />
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Noel also has space at his dock for a few boats, and also a few moorings (lots of anchoring space too). A number of cruisers have left boats in the water at Noel's dock for several months at a time. Liapari is above 8 degrees S, so theoretically out of the cyclone belt. The harbor is completely enclosed by 70% land and 30% reef, and would be fine to weather anything but a direct hit from a major cyclone (unlikely given its location). Noel provides a water taxi once or twice a week so cruisers can get needed supplies from nearby Gizo. Gizo also has an airport link that, via Honiara, can get you to Brisbane and international airlines.<br />
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Noel has an extensive workshop and can do fabrication and welding, as well as mechanical repairs.<br />
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If you are in need of a haulout in the Solomons, we can recommend Liapari. Our Solomon Islands Compendium, a free downloadable PDF found on our Files Page, includes pricing and contact details for all 3 shipyards. <a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/files/index.htm#sw-pacific">SW Pacific Compendiums</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/Trolley.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/Trolley-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dave Surveying the Haulout Mechanics</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/Trolley2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/Trolley2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The 200 Ton Trolley</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/ApproachTrolleyDown.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/ApproachTrolleyDown-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Approaching the Ramp with Trolley Down</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/UpWeGo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/UpWeGo-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Up We Go!</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/Out1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/Out1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Fully Out</center></strong><br />
Because we opted to just sit on our keels, rather than on Noel's strong frame that would allow lifting under the bridge deck, we stayed at a minor tilt during our haulout. But if you haul out using Noel's frame, it is angled a little bit so that you end up with the boat level. Noel has, or can build, whatever structure you need to make sure your boat sits on it's strongest part for the haulout.<br />
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<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/BommieDamage.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/BommieDamage-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Oops, Just a Small Scrape!</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/BommieDamage2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/jun/BommieDamage2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-79156077348453061752019-06-10T04:05:00.000+09:002019-07-04T14:46:36.795+09:00The Last Bag of Lays Potato ChipsI know I am way behind in recounting all of our many adventures... Sorry, we've just been having so many adventures that it's hard to keep up.
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<br>But.. this is a momentous (and sad) occasion.
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<br>We have just breeched our very last bag of Lays Potato Chips. It's a silly thing, but... for those of us out here in the wild... it is difficult sourcing all those things that make us feel at home. Triscuits (my most favorite cracker in the world) ... Cheerios (Dave's most favorite cereal in the world)... Oreos... the special only in America sweetest choclatiest cookies. Cheddar cheese... etc etc.
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<br>In Davao, Philippines, there are enough "foreigner" stores that sourcing the kinds of foods that Americans are looking for, is pretty easy. We stocked up "to the max" in December (very thankful for the fantastic shuttle provided by Holiday Oceanview Marina that made it so easy to stock up).
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<br>But it is June now, 6 months later, and all our "stocks" are dwindling. I've just opened our last bag of Lays Potato Chips. I am nearly down to my last bottle of ($4US) dark rum. (I priced a bottle of the cheapest rum available here and it was $35 USD).
<br>
<br>We stopped in a store today in the Russell Island of the Solomons. They had about 10 cans of Solomon Islands tuna, a few bags of rice, a few cigarettes (what our boat driver was interested in). Wah, I miss the excesses of the First World. Or even the non-excesses of the third world capital city of the Solomons, Honiara.
<br>
<br>Fortunately, we have a HUGE freezer, and it is well stocked. Plus my pantry is pretty large and we won't go hungry soon. And I've just convinced my daughter, who's flying in in mid-July, to bring an extra suitcase. We've already got an order into Amazon Pantry for a few food items we can't get anywhere here. (Cheerios, Triscuits, Italian Dressing Mix).
<br>
<br>Here, Australian versions of potato chips are available, in some places. But, I'm tellin' ya, there's absolutely nothing like Lays.
<br>-----
<br>At 6/9/2019 6:15 AM (utc) our position was 09°02.55'S 159°05.15'E
<br><a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/currentposition.htm">http://svsoggypaws.com/currentposition.htm</a>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-10388766893747299682019-04-19T14:54:00.000+09:002019-07-06T08:50:40.793+09:00Rendova and PT109 Base April 17-18, 2019<br />
<br />
After saying goodbye to Ocelot, who are headed back north a little ways to store their boat in Liapari for a couple of months, and Berzerker, who are hanging out in Munda waiting for brother Scott to fly in, Indigo and Soggy Paws headed out of Munda for the next island south, Rendova.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/RendovaMapAnnotated.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/RendovaMapAnnotated-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The North End of Rendova</center></strong><br />
It's only 5 miles as the crow flies from where we were anchored in Munda to where we anchored in Rendova, but it's 15 miles by boat, because there's a large reef system protecting Munda that has to be navigated around. It was an easy trip in flat calm windless conditions.<br />
<br />
We had reports from cruisers around 2010-2011 about some armed boardings in the middle of the night, in Rendova Harbor. But inquiring with Dive Munda, before we left Munda, they didn’t know of any problems in recent years. So we anchored right in the harbor, next to the village. The only problem we had while there was too many friendly kids!<br />
<br />
We dinghied ashore and met Daniel, who is the (expired) chief's son, and also the head man in the Catholic church. He was very friendly and spoke good English. The chief had recently died, and the village had not yet decided on a new chief. <br />
(Apparently being chief in the Solomons is not hereditary).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/Church.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/Church-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Church</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/Daniel.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/Daniel-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Daniel and his Youngest Son</center></strong><br />
Daniel gave us a tour of his small village, and also took us to a man who had some World War II "relics". The American forces took Rendova in the fall of 1943.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/WWIIMemorabilia.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/WWIIMemorabilia-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>World War II Stuff</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/CokeBottles.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/CokeBottles-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Old Coke Bottles!</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/2FrancCoin.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/2FrancCoin-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Old Coins!</center></strong><br />
Everywhere we went in the village, we were followed by a gaggle of kids.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/LiznKids.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/LiznKids-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Liz from Indigo, and our Gaggle</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/TheKids.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/TheKids-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Gaggle, Assembled (mostly)</center></strong><br />
The next morning, we went in our dinghies to the World War II PT Boat Base on Lumbaria Island, where John F Kennedy was based on PT109 for a few months. The family that owns the island are trying to establish a museum and guesthouse there.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatBaseSign.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatBaseSign-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Former PT Boat Base</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatSignClose.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatSignClose-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatGun.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatGun-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center></center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatDetailSign.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTBoatDetailSign-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Memorial to JFK</center></strong><br />
Right now the museum is housed in an open building. The display items are meager because during "The Troubles" (in 1999-2003), the museum was destroyed and all the items stolen. So now they are trying to rebuild the museum. The owner, Mr Nicely Zongahiti, is now building a concrete block building that can be properly secured.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum1-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>GI Helmets</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Guns and Cartriges</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum3-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Canteens</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/PTMuseum4-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Coke Bottles</center></strong><br />
For someone who wants to visit the museum that doesn't have their own boat, the best way is to go to the Agnes Hotel or Dive Munda, in Munda, and take a trip over with them.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/OrchidsPT109.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/OrchidsPT109-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Grounds of the Island-Lovely Orchids</center></strong><br />
As we got ready to pull anchor to move to another anchorage, the kids came back! Liz generously handed out cookies in exchange for photos of the kids in their canoes.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/IndigoCanoes.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/may/IndigoCanoes-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Kids and Their Canoes Getting Cookies from Indigo</center></strong>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-2986072993923037862019-04-17T11:51:00.000+09:002019-07-06T08:48:28.319+09:00A Few Days in MundaWe enjoyed our stay in Munda, Western Province, Solomon Islands. Munda is a small town--about 3 blocks wide and 3 deep, plus an airport. It's primary claim to fame is the airport, plus a road and water link to Noro. A couple of weeks ago they initiated the first direct flight from Brisbane, Australia to Munda, to try to encourage tourism in the Western Province. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/MundaKids.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/MundaKids-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Some of the Curious Kids at the Wharf in Munda</center></strong><br />
In Munda, the cruiser hangout is Agnes Lodge, a very cruiser-friendly/tolerant place. Steps out Agnes Lodge's front door is the local market, and up the main street are a number of small stores, where we were able to buy supplies, fresh bread, and top up our cell phones. We had a couple of happy hour evenings on the deck at Agnes Lodge, and dinner a couple of times too. <br />
<br />
There is some diving in the lagoon (WW2 airplanes), but Dave has been fighting a suppurating tropical infection on his leg, and staying out of the water. So we skipped the diving for now. <br />
<br />
We did fit in a fun half-day trip with Dive Munda to hike up to a waterfall. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/WaterfallHike.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/WaterfallHike-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Group Crossing the River</center></strong><br />
Like similar trips we have done recently, we expected a two hour easy hike and it turned out for us as a four hour difficult hike. We marveled at the young apprentice guides who came with us, skipping across the top of the rocks in the river in their flip-flops. Meanwhile, us old folks stumbled and slipped along in our $100 hiking shoes, unbalanced and fearful of breaking a leg 1000 miles from anywhere. We understand why these 2 hour hikes turn into 4 hour hikes. (They can't believe we are so slow, especially when the bird-watchers pull out their binoculars!).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/TheRiver.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/TheRiver-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>We crossed this river 9 times going up and 9 times going down</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/DaveWaterFall.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/DaveWaterFall-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dave Enjoying the Fall<br />
(Note stylish "Thailand Pants" to thwart mosquitos)</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/DaveBehindTheFall.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/DaveBehindtheFall-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Dave Behind the Fall</center></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/OneHelluvaBigTree.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/OneHelluvaBigTree-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>A Massive Tree Next to the Swimming Hole</center></strong><br />
<br />
It was a fun hike, and it signaled the end of our 4 boat group that has been traveling together since January... <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/BIOSCrew-BigGun.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/BIOSCrew-BigGun-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Berserker, Indigo II, Ocelot, & Soggy Paws Crews, looking at rusty bits in the jungle (again!)</center></strong><br />
The next day Ocelot headed north to park their boat in Liapari for a couple of months, for a trip back to the USA. Soggy Paws and Indigo headed south towards the Marovo Lagoon, and Berzerker stayed behind for a week to wait for Craig's brother to fly in.Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-74163024436257232532019-04-14T10:55:00.000+09:002019-07-06T08:52:43.274+09:00More Missing Updates!Sad face. I have gotten really lame at doing regular blog updates. It's just so much easier to blast a few words and a picture on Facebook (and friend Pam Wilson has been Facebooking lots of our activities before I even get to them). Plus, I am spending a lot of time editing cruising details into my PNG Compendium and Solomons Compendium (cruising guide supplements for cruisers following in our wake). <br />
<br />
So again, in an attempt to get going again, I'm going to list what we've been doing without a lot of explanation, and then try to do a post on what we have been up to in the last week. <br />
<br />
My position reports via Winlink are now pretty much up to date, so you can see where we've been and where we are now.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/WinlinkMapApril2019.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/apr/WinlinkMapApril2019-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Our Position Reports for the last few months</center></strong><br />
<br />
Follow our position reports in the future on this link: <br />
<a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/currentposition.htm">http://svsoggypaws.com/currentposition.htm</a> <br />
<br />
Here are all my missing posts in the last month: <br />
<br />
Mar 16-17 PNG, English Cove to Buka <br />
Mar 18-19 PNG, Buka to Shortland Islands, Solomons <br />
Mar 20 Solomons, Checking in to the Shortlands <br />
Mar 20-25 Solomons, Fun in the Shortland Islands <br />
Mar 26-27 Solomons, Sterling Island <br />
Mar 28-30 Solomons, Sterling Island to Liapari <br />
Mar 31-Apr 1 Solomons, Arrival in Gizo <br />
Apr 2-13 Solomons, Exploring Vonavona Lagoon <br />
Solomons, A Few Days in Noro Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6865235966202611886.post-43205484272467734022019-03-16T06:52:00.001+09:002021-11-19T17:20:51.043+09:00Rabaul to English Cove, New IrelandMar 14-15 <br />
<br />
We checked out of PNG with the Rabaul Customs officer with next port listed as Gizo, Solomons. While in town, we all hit the stores and the market for one more round of provisioning. We bought some very expensive marine 2-part epoxy in one hardware store that had some marine supplies--so we could pay back the epoxy we had borrowed to make our rudder repairs (done in Kavieng), and have a small supply on hand in case we need it again. <br />
<br />
We left Rabaul in the early morning, headed SSE to a pair of coves on the SW end of New Ireland, named Irish Cove and English Cove. As we motored out in the glassy conditions, we motored right past the smoking volcano that we had hiked a couple of days before. <br />
<br />
Once the wind came up, we were able to sail most of the way with the NW wind mostly behind us. However, as we approached the coast of New Ireland at Lamassa Island, the wind switched 180 degrees and came strong on our nose (some weird land breeze). <br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/SailingNewIreland.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/SailingNewIreland-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>One of Our Buddy Boats Captures a Great Picture<br></strong>Photo credit: Sue on Ocelot</center><br>
Dave wanted to see a cove that Rod Pearce (famed WWII airplane hunter in PNG) had said we could anchor, and from which we could scramble up on a ridge and find a downed Japanese plane. So we let the other boats go on to the anchorage in Irish/English Cove and we explored around a bit. We found that there was indeed an anchorage where Rod had pointed out, at approx 04 43.56 S / 152 48.08 E, in about 20-30 feet of sand/mud. This is probably only a one-boat anchorage. <br />
<br />
There was a big thunderstorm building offshore and we still had at least an hour to go to get to the anchorage, so we didn't explore too much, but maybe we'll get a chance to go back on our way back north. <br />
<br />
Being last in a 4 boat fleet into a tiny anchorage meant we got the outside spot. But fortunately our buddy boats had left enough room for us. We were wedged into tiny English Cove two-by-two, with Ocelot behind us hanging in 12 ft and we had to drop in about 40 ft. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/AnchorageFromBeach.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/AnchorageFromBeach-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Four Boats Squeezed into Tiny Anchorage<br>Wind and Swell Outside</center></strong><br>
It seemed like the cove was exposed to the prevailing westerly winds, but the outside reefs blocked the swell and we were fine in there. We had checked out Irish Cove and found it much deeper--we probably could not have fit all 4 boats in Irish Cove. <br />
<br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/OcelotInundated.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/OcelotInundated-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Ocelot Surrounded by Friendly Canoes</center></strong><br>
By the time we came in and anchored, our friends were surrounded by canoes. These were friendly curious people and it turned out that most of them were from Lambom Island nearby, where we could see a fairly large village on the satellite charts. Lambom does not have a water supply, so the villagers come daily to Irish Cove in their canoes to get water from the fresh water river that empties into the bay. <br />
<br>
Only a few families actually live in this bay. Eventually the Lambom canoes departed as the sun started to set, and we met Passie (pronounced Posse, like the American west group that forms to hunt down the bad guys) and Joel, two of the men who live in English Cove. Both spoke really good Englsih, and neither chewed bettlenut (a mild drug from a local plant that leaves the chewers with red stained and broken teeth). So we had a nice chat with them. Passie told us we could come in to the river to get water or take a swim in their swimming hole. He also told us there was a waterfall a little ways upriver that he could guide us to if we wanted. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/PassiesHouse.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/PassiesHouse-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Passie's House</center></strong><br>
We had planned to depart for Buka the next morning, but we had a little happy hour conference and decided we'd stay for the day. <br />
<br />
Passie guided us up the river to the small waterfall. It was more like a small rapids than an actual waterfall, but it was nice to get out and walk some (though a little of it was walking up the rocky river bank, and those with flip-flops struggled a bit). On the way back, we took a shortcut through some of the village's gardens. The birders in our group were happily spotting birds, too. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/TheWaterfall.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/TheWaterfall-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>The Giant Waterfall</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/TheSwimmingHole.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/TheSwimmingHole-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Swimming Hole and Changing Table</center></strong><br>
<a href="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/TheSwimmingHole2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.svsoggypaws.com/blog2019/mar/TheSwimmingHole2-sm.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><strong><center>Frolicking in the Fresh Water</center></strong><br>
Back at the swimming hole, we had a nice time splashing around in the surprisingly cold clear water. Liz from Indigo brought her laundry in--the laundry she'd sent out in Rabaul came back no cleaner than when it left, and a little smelly because it never got properly dried. <br />
<br />
The next morning we did an exhaustive look at the weather. The weather didn't look great for a long passage to Buka, but it didn't look great the next day either. So we collectively decided to go ahead and go, knowing that the forecast showed either light wind directly behind us, or light wind on the nose... we would be motoring most of the passage. <br />
<br />
----- <br />
At 3/14/2019 10:31 PM (utc) our position was 04°46.28'S 152°51.42'E <br />
<a href="http://svsoggypaws.com/currentposition.htm">http://svsoggypaws.com/currentposition.htm</a>Sherryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08874482332307651799noreply@blogger.com0