Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Exploring Three Islands, New Hanover

Feb 19, 2019

Once we finally made the big jump from the Hermit Islands, we were anxious to move on to Kavieng. We had been nearly 3 weeks out in the boonies with few supplies and no internet. But we had arrived in New Hanover on a Friday, and it would take a full day to sail to Kavieng, our planned check-in port for PNG, on neighboring New Ireland. We didn't want to arrive in Kavieng on a weekend and try to check in. So we decided to enjoy Clem's Place at Three Islands for the weekend. (Besides, there was some diving to do!)

Friday we spent mostly recovering from the 3 day 2 night passage... stowing sea stuff and launching the dinghy. We were visited throughout the day by a series of kids in canoes wanting to trade fruit and veggies for lollies and biscuits (Australian/PNG speak for candies and cookies).
Sue on Ocelot Trading with the Kids

In the afternoon, we went ashore on Dunung Island, the middle of the Three Islands. We walked around the island to find "Clem's Place". Clem is the head of one of the families on the island, and he and his wife Sophie have established a small backpacker type surf and fishing resort.

Clem asked us if we were interested in doing a "River Trip" the next day. The trip entailed motoring up the river in one of Clem's boats, and then rafting down the river. After ironing out the details for a trip the next day, we went back to our boats for happy hour and an early night.

The next morning, we were picked up in Clem's boat by Johnny, Batman, and Apolis, Clem's boatmen and guides. As gasoline is in scarce supply, we supplied the gasoline for the trip. We also took a few gifts for the village that we were going to visit...things like pencils, paper, crayons, and books for the school.
Our Crew Setting Out Up the River

We motored across the bay and into the shallow entrance to the river. The entrance was almost totally blocked by a bar of sand and river debris, and there was a pretty big chop where the river current met the incoming waves. But Johnny, our boat driver, skillfully found the channel and had us in the river in no time...with only a little bailing needed afterward.
The Mouth of the River

Bailing After Crossing the Bar

Once in the river, we motored upstream enjoying the sights.
There Was Lots to Take Pictures Of

Beautiful Overhanging Trees

A Stilt House at the Water's Edge

Curious Kids on the River Bank Watch Us Go By

A Lovely Family in the Family Car

We went as far up the river as we could in the heavy fiberglass boat with an outboard. Then we offloaded and hiked over a hill to the village.
Hiking to the Village

Village and River from the Top of the Hill

We were greeted by several of the villagers, and given a tour around the village.
The Village Church

The Village Church Inside

The Village School



Since we had only arranged with Clem to do the trip the afternoon before, the village had not been warned ahead of time about our visit. So they parked us in a cool place with someone who could speak English and answer our questions, while they got organized.
We waited on someone's porch

We always get asked "Where do you come from?", "How many children do you have?", "How old are they?" So it is fun to whip out the camera and show some pictures of our kids and our boats. They also LOVE to see pictures of themselves... it's a great icebreaker with the kids... take their picture then show them the picture. Then every kid in the village lines up for a picture.
Showing Pictures

After a long wait, they finally took us down to the shallow river next to the village and started building the rafts. The men went into the jungle with big machete's and brought back long bamboo logs, and some heavy vines. They laced the raft together with the vines. As it was only meant to be a short trip downriver in fairly calm water, they didn't use first quality materials. But they sufficed for our purposes.
Our Rafts Being Constructed from Natural Materials

The Finished Raft Looks Pretty Sturdy

And our rafts are finally complete, and we set out down the river, two to a raft. We are only slightly awash!
Our Rafts are Finally Complete and we Head Down the River
Good Bye, Friendly Village!

We poled our way down the river for about a half an hour, where we were met by our boat from Clem's Place. We had another wet ride over the river bar and arrived back on board in time for happy hour. The map below shows our anchorage and the grey line is our track up the river.

Map of Duning Island and our River Journey

Anchorage Waypoint: 02 22.25 S / 150 07.27 E Approx 20-25' sand. Room for 3-4 boats easy. No cell signal.

If you like watching videos, Pam and Craig on s/v Berzerker, part of our little group, made a cute video of our river adventure.
River Trip from Dunung Island on YouTube.

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